Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Then take off in 2nd pretty sure you'd have enough torque for that!!

depending on the road but traction is hard to get in 1st, 2nd and sometime even 3rd, big car, easy to handle mmmmmmm sideways!!

it doesnt matter what road surface for some reason. I cant get traction at all in 1st and if i rev it too fast or start reaching 4k rpm and above the thing starts to go sideways/fishtailing. but damn i hate the wet in such a big car that is rwd although im sure others are the exact opposite of me and love the wet.

it doesnt matter what road surface for some reason. I cant get traction at all in 1st and if i rev it too fast or start reaching 4k rpm and above the thing starts to go sideways/fishtailing. but damn i hate the wet in such a big car that is rwd although im sure others are the exact opposite of me and love the wet.

And what happens when you put it in 2nd after wheel spin for a couple of seconds? You must get a fare bit of tramp then, cos mine get plenty of wheel spin also and a whole heap of tramp(hate that feeling)

Yeh sweet, i was born there left when i was 2(well had no choice on the matter) You don't drive to Adel everyday to go to work do you? Thats a longish drive!!

nah mate, i live and work here, i dont like the place that much. im in adelaide most weekends, we got a place there too.

they just cover the width, thus no noticable streaching but i think i need 276's.

Nah dude streach is good especially on the rear, i have same wheels 8.5 front and 9.5 rear, and i run 235/40/18 all round, rears have good streach while not as much on front looks fat and it acctually used the wall of the tyre when up to a higher temp and getting a booting.

Rear cradle bushes will help the axle tramp but then will be more happy to ass end out. Try changing gears just after it hits boost and somwhat feather the throttle off until wheelspin stops, see how that goes!! :Pimp2:

who streched the tyres for one. as when i had to buy mine no who would do it - except dodgy workshops which i couldnt find, so had to go with what i just stated. those measurements reminds me of my friends car who has 235 streched over 10" width rims - you know who im talking bout sam we went for a thrash in his car.

who streched the tyres for one. as when i had to buy mine no who would do it - except dodgy workshops which i couldnt find, so had to go with what i just stated. those measurements reminds me of my friends car who has 235 streched over 10" width rims - you know who im talking bout sam we went for a thrash in his car.

Who ever won't streach tyres are soft, fair call if someone wants to streach 215 or 225 on that size rim, but 235 is streached but not that streched, Go see Dave at WheelWorx on South Rd just north of Anzacs, he can give you a good price on tyres and streach them if you want, tell him i sent you and he will sort you out anytime.

I don't want to make a liar out of SAMBO so.. here goes...

"nEEERRRRRRRRRR"

BTW... nice pics SAM!!! they turned out awesome.. well for my car atleast..lol

:D

Hey did u all hear?.. Wil might be defecting to SR power...  

Will? SR power? you gotta tell us now dude

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
    • Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
×
×
  • Create New...