Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ill be taking it easy for a bit, while im running the engine in anyways. what steps did you follow to run your engine in cubes?
Quite contentious, can't say whether I'd follow this advice or not, but it's certainly food for thought. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And on a totally unrelated note here's some pictures...

bowhunt1.jpg

bowhunt2.jpg

bowhunt3.jpg

bowhunt4.jpg

:D

interesting stuff hey. they say if you dont run the engine hard the rings wont bed in properly. i suppose motorcycle engines would have to be similar to the running in of a car engine. coincidentaly the pistons ill be using are CP forged ones, and they make the majority of there parts to suit motorcycles.

Sambo33,

I was conservative and hung off before taking the jump to synthetic.

I used Penrite run-in oil for the first 1500km's, did 3 oil and filter changes.

One after a couple hundred then the other 2 every 600-700 or so.

I then ran Motul Motion 10w30 Mineral oil until the motor clocked up 10,000km's.

Within the 8500km's I did 2 oil changes, each at ~4000-5000km's.

I then went to Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40.

With regards to how the car was driven, I wired open the wastegate so I could get plenty of load on the motor without boost flicking up to 10psi and creating to much load.

The car went on the dyno to check afr's and ignition timing, I rev'd it to 3500rpm and drove with a flat foot everywhere for the first ~1000km's.

After that I began to rev it a little more ~5000rpm.

I only had it tuned and boost hooked back up once i got synthetic and the PFC in to the car which was at 10,000km's.

So it had lots and lots of time for the rings to bed in and properly as I could get a nice amount of load in to her.

Even though I'm running the largest recommended bore to piston clearance for 24+psi and race use it uses zero oil and has no oil in the intake piping.

It did use a little oil and had oil in the intake piping up until around 1,500km's.

It has slight piston slap on cold starts but goes away very quickly. :D

I was told by the engine builder not to jump in to synthetic too quickly as by doing so can only cause harm, not doing so won't cause any harm but only potentially good.

I've bought a few bits in the past week or so, GTR injectors (good for ~270rwkw on std fuel pressure) and a vg30det turbo that I have the exhaust housing machined up to suit a GT30 600hp CHRA and .7 comp cover. :D

I've attached a map trace for those that are fiddlers like myself.

Its also time for another oil change.

I've decided to go with the heavier Castrol 10w60 over the Motul 8100 5w40.

I went a K&N Oil filter over the PureOne this time as i'm tired of skinning my knuckles trying to remove the old sucker. :cheers:

My other half thinks its sad taking pictures of oil ($59.95 @ Autobarn) and a filter ($18.95 @ Sprint Autoparts).

Whats worse is for some reason I get excited when I look at my new oil filter and castrol oil :)

My other half thinks its sad taking pictures of oil ($59.95 @ Autobarn) and a filter ($18.95 @ Sprint Autoparts).  

Whats worse is for some reason I get excited when I look at my new oil filter and castrol oil :wave:

They just don't understand.... Do they! How much better is ya car just after a oil change, which reminds me I'm just about due too!!

Oil change.. :wave:

Feels the same to be honest, it didn't use a drop of oil and there was no nasty's in either the filter or the bottom of the drain pan.

I want to get myself one of those cheap oil cooler and filter relocation kits for $175, then grab myself an elec. oil temp and pressure guage and mount it in the center console where the GTR's have their three guages. So many plans, so little money. :D

where can you get the oil cooler and filter kit for $175 i woudl like to know. cheapest ive seen is $350 complete kit.

Sorry $350. lol

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=81255

I had just finished looking at the IC for $175. :rofl:

Oil change.. :rofl:

Feels the same to be honest.

I want to get myself one of those cheap oil cooler and filter relocation kits for $175, then grab myself an elec. oil temp and pressure guage and mount it in the center console where the GTR's have their three guages. So many plans, so little money. :D

i got a Earl's oil cooler coming on early August which i don't need now... crazy1.gif

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...