Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did they say why they couldn't remove the rear left wheel?

Lock nut? Spinning stud?

Either way you should be able to spin the wheel around and see with a torch how much meat is left on the pad. Looking at the opposite wheel will give you a good indication how much meat is left on the left.

The skylines brakes wear fairly evenly due to being 4pots up the fronts and 2 pots at the rear. So the inner doesn't wear early like that of the usual clamp type pos brakes.

I wouldn't be concerned.

Have you bought it yet?

Get under the car and check the chassis rails for damage.

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yup :wave:

hey guys i need a little advice, im purchasing the car on friday but there is a small problem and that is the RAA couldnt get the rear left wheel off the car to check the brakes on that rotor.

Got any advice, should this sort of thing hold me up greatly?

why dont you take it to a workshop that specialises in skylines? RAA is pointless when it comes to these checks, they only good for when your car breaks down and needs a tow.

yup :wave:

hey guys i need a little advice, im purchasing the car on friday but there is a small problem and that is the RAA couldnt get the rear left wheel off the car to check the brakes on that rotor.

Got any advice, should this sort of thing hold me up greatly?

wtf? Id be wondering why they would not be able to take a wheel off...cbf, or something wrong?

I'm not too fond of the RAA inspections.

I bought a VS 5ltr 5speed some 7years ago, had it RAA inspected and they missed an obvious inlet manifold water leak and loose engine mount that had the exhaust hitting the body under acceleration. :wave:

The inlet manifold leak was a real pain in the arse to get fixed too.. They had the car for 3 weeks and racked up almost 70km's, I got it back and the clutch felt all spongy like they had been slipping it. :)

From there that car was down hill... Such a damn unreliable (drivetrain) money pit. Well at least the new owner got a good deal; new diff, gearbox and rear subframe. :O

The RAA said that "several of the wheel nuts were damaged, so unable to complete brake check."

The guy did a very thorough report and they do check everything on their check list. I mean id want a full refund of the 200 dollars i spent to get myself some peace of mind before buyin the car.

I'm not worried about the brake pad, Im worried about the wheel coming off, I think im going to tell him that I'm not coming to pick up the car until he can get that wheel off and then refit it with new nuts. without breaking his nuts is the key, but i guess im the one with the cash anyway.

Edited by SAZilla
The RAA said that "several of the wheel nuts were damaged, so unable to complete brake check."

The guy did a very thorough report and they do check everything on their check list. I mean id want a full refund of the 200 dollars i spent to get myself some peace of mind before buyin the car.

I'm not worried about the brake pad, Im worried about the wheel coming off, I think im going to tell him that I'm not coming to pick up the car until he can get that wheel off and then refit it with new nuts. without breaking his nuts is the key, but i guess im the one with the cash anyway.

so he has to brake a nut to get the broken nuts off :dry: how do nuts get broken...id ask for explanation.

he is thorough, but did they do a compression check?

yes, came up with 5 percent within eachother,

is that good?

@cubes, private sale bud

my mate said if the problem is that serious ill have to spend quite a bit to get the thread welded back onto the rotor or whatever to repair the damage done by the nuts. only problem me and my mate -who knows quite a bit about turbo vehicles- picked up was just a scratch on the door that could be buffed out and thats it. the car was beautiful on the test drive.

Edited by SAZilla

Update: I rang mike said to him id pick up the car on monday definitely if that wheel was removed then refitted succesfully, he agreed and is getting a mechanic to do it. so thats sorted...

so yer 5 percent is what the RAA said, I gather thats 5 percent loss or 5 percent difference between all cylinders.

5% variation is a fair amount but I'd say its most likely <5% which is considered ok.

The chances of a car thats 10yrs old having near perfect compression ratio is slim.

Please cheak the head lights when you pick it up... I was excited and forgot to... Turned the head lights on and then had to hunt around for H3C bulbs that absolutely no one had apart from autobarn that was closed. :dry:

yep the lights in her have been changed already, all but this rear wheel bullshit is fine. all the suspension and undercarriage is fine aswell but he couldnt check out that disk and that wheel and anything behind it. i rang the guy and told him to fix it for me today so i can pick up car on monday. so hopefully all goes well

easy

when i go to pick up the car, with my mate, I will say:

"fixed that wheel?, I want to just check the brake pads and the rotor before I give you the cash."

then ill check it, find that its all good, and then bang im done.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
    • You must be fun at parties. 
×
×
  • Create New...