Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah aren't they fixing all the pot holes or whatever

was wrong with the track??

Yeh i believe they are resurfacing most, if not all of the track so they can run other races there and also better for the drifters!

But once it comes back it SHOULD be heaps better! AIR was starting to look like a backstreet in Sailsbury...........Oh it basically is!

  • 2 weeks later...

but ur from victoria!

i got my car tuned with a new boost controller. and got 208.6rwkw on 1 bar (15psi i think) - ofcourse at boostworx... shaun the champ charged me like nothing and i got more power at less boost. previous was 205.4 at 1.1bar. and they say rb20s suck. i could easily run more boost but its enough for the street.

plan is to either put a gtr engine in this or a 25 if im on a budget or build a 25/30. end of this year as i finish uni half way through this year unless i buy a gtr also. so im gona drive this engine till it blows its only done 67000kms so far.

felt that i could share my plans with u guys.

Edited by r31turbo
wow SA wasteland sucks. i hada scroll back 2 pages to find it lol

We don't talk crap here in SA(well much anyways) :P

Raz, nice output there mate........bieng a 25 head myself, I do believe that would be a good option! You thought of maybe a SR20det, Something different(it's ok we won't think any different of you......you still have a Skyline!!!!) :D

just a turbotech one... i was sceptical at first but it works well tricking the wastegate and holds well boost. i was looking at more expensive options such as greddy profecb. but i dont want to switch boost levels i can drive accordingly to do that lol.

25 seems the cheap option im opting for at least 300rwkw with poncams and rebuild or else its not worth it. sr20s would be cool butt... itd be making similar power maybe a little more and little more response... 25/30 offers the most bang for buck another likely option.... and the gtr engine u cant go past in terms of sound and engineering but very expensive.

having owned a rb30et id say a 25 (possibly 25/30) would offer the best compromise between the age old debate of power delivery

id go with whatever gives me the most torque and if im not wrong the 25/30 comes 1st in this department followed by the 25det.

is that turbotech bleedvalve your using the same one as what is/was being sold on these forums? they work an absolute treat. alot better then my ebc, suprisingly.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...