Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I've had a 3x2bolt axle r180 diff in my cefiro. I went to a local wreker and they had a whole rear subframe, which they said is from cefiro. I bought it.

It was a R200 diff (5X1 bolt axles) with bigger stabilizer bar. Thicker than my old one by about 1cm o so. So I bought it. I thought it was a normal open diff and stuff. Cause we couldn't turn the wheels, because one of the calipers was jammed.

Today we bolted the new R200 and 5x1 bolt axles to my old subframe and installed everything. Went for a spin. It was much more better at doing donuts than open diff LOL. Then we went to test it on the highway. The car wasn't stable and it had those really nasty sounds when I was accelerating.

Those weren't clicking, more aggressive. Pretty scary :)

Anyway, we came back, changed the tires, cause my right tire was really bad cause of the open diff madness the other day. So stability was there, when I accelerated everything was fine no scary sounds. The sounds appeared in those slow turns. When I came on gas it was like something jamming in the back and those loud and scary clanking-clicking sounds. The car was vibrating a bit while turning. When I disengaged the clutch the sounds disappeared. It seems they only come when I accelerate while turning in those low speed corners. I assume I got some kind of 1-way diff, since it locks up on acceleration. And if its from cefiro, as the guys said. (could be some other rwd nissan ?)

Did some of you experience same kind of stuff in your cars ? People use lockers, 2-way diffs here. Do they behave in the same way, like in my case ? )

And what could be the problem ? Wrong oil ?(we used shell gear oil). Not enough oil ?(We added oil untill we saw it through the the little hole.)

Please advise me on my little problem. It's really annoying, when the car is rattling and stuff.

Thanks in advance !

P.S.

Mark on the final gear : 46:12, does it mean something ?)) Good for me or bad ? LOL

Below is my original rear subframe, the new R200 subframe i got with some wicked diff.

th_IMG_1239_3_1.jpgth_IMG_1240_4_1.jpgth_IMG_1243_5_1.jpg

th_IMG_1244_6_1.jpgth_IMG_1245_7_1.jpgth_IMG_1246_8_1.jpg

th_IMG_1248_10_1.jpgth_IMG_1259_17_1.jpgth_IMG_1260_18_1.jpg

th_IMG_1251_12_1.jpgth_IMG_1253_13_1.jpgth_IMG_1254_14_1.jpg

th_IMG_1257_15_1.jpgth_IMG_1258_16_1.jpg

Edited by robots

Maybe I put it wrong :P

When I'm in neutral it doesn't clunk, when in gear with clutch disengaged it doesn't clunk. It only does that when I accelerate. So it's 1 way, i think.

I just don't think it should make that loud noise and rattle the car so much. Its stock lsd, so it's pretty strange to me.

Cheers !

Maybe I put it wrong :)

When I'm in neutral it doesn't clunk, when in gear with clutch disengaged it doesn't clunk. It only does that when I accelerate. So it's 1 way, i think.

I just don't think it should make that loud noise and rattle the car so much. Its stock lsd, so it's pretty strange to me.

Cheers !

there are no R200 1 ways... no such thing.

a Two way lsd will clunk when loaded up, that means accel on sharp turns if you back off and coast through or in neutral. it wont load the clutch plates up enough to lock them, so no clunking.

perfectally normal behavior for a 2 way.

Thanks!

Actually it clunks when Iback of the throttle and coast in neutral through very tight turns (parking lot). And car jerks, when outside wheel can't keep up with the inside.

I will take a proper look next weekends.

I think its to tight ).

Will post up some pics then.

Edited by robots

also just to be sure check U-joints and mount bushings. and make sure everything is tightend. dont forget your LUGNUTS... yeah i know stupid but i have made the mistake of forgeting to retighten the lugnuts after a few miles and i thought it was my diff but the wheel was just falling off haha...

ibve done that also... several times now :nyaanyaa:

but yeah, the diff prob is tight, however rest assured its a good thing, and on higher speed corners etc ect it will be an awesome thing.

So put up with some low speed jerkyness for some high speed fun :laugh:

Sounds like a mechanical 1.5 or 2 way.

They best way to test is A) Look at the diff centre and check for a shape like this:

<> = Will equal a 2way

th_IMG_1258_16_1.jpg

You'll find what im talking about in the centre of this photo, its hard to see in the pic but its through the "holes" in the centre that the crown gear wraps around.

Alternatively, when moving into a corner at reasonbly high revs say 4-5k, back the gas right off which will cause alot of negative torque through the drive. If the car shudders, its because the inside wheel is slowing due to the neg torque from the motor and the outside cornering wheel is being forced to slow by the diff locking it momentarily.

This is what a 2 way is designed for in the case of coming off the gas really quickly rather than just one wheel locking and unbalancing the car both with lock in a 2 way.

Thats why drifters can "lift off" drift with alot more control with a 2 way LSD just by coming off the throttle at the right time.

Oh yeah, The reason if your in neutral, or on the clutch its quiet is mechanical LSD's are all based on torque, no torque no action = quiet.

I sometimes find when I put a new centre in I just have to put the clutch right in to make tight turns, or when taking off while turning such as out of a street just control the torque with the clutch afterall thats what its there for.

Its kinda hard to explain and I am hungover, but I hope this helps :P

Edited by BasketCase
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey, guys !

Can I use Motul 75W90 Gear Oil or Redline High Performance Gear Oil 75W90(I think this one contains additives for lsd).

What should I put in ?

Any other options ?

How much oil should I put in ? 1L ?

Thanks !

Use Penrite Limslip diff oil, 85W-140. Very quiet and very cheap. $24 for 2.5L.

Your diff will take about 1.5L, probably a bit more

Edited by salad

Can you recommend something else ? :) I don't think I can find it in China( I was just able to find those 2. Could they work ? Could any other 85W-140 work ? 76 maybe ? )

Or any other brand ?

Edited by robots

I've took the thing out on weekends. Didn't find any sings of tear or wear.

Added 85W-140 Valvoline gear oil. It said, that you could use that oil with limited slip diffs. So here are the pics.

I guess my one is 1way or 1.5 way.

according to cusco:i-33.jpg

Anyway. Its still noisy and the car rattles. A little less then before though.

th_IMG_1773_7_1.jpgth_IMG_1772_6_1.jpgth_IMG_1771_5_1.jpgth_IMG_1770_4_1.jpg

th_IMG_1769_3_1.jpgth_IMG_1768_2_1.jpgth_IMG_1767_1_1.jpg

It could be backlash? If the diff is in the car... lift the car up on stands, put it in gear, take the handbrake off, climb under the car, see how much you can rotate the wheel/halfshaft before the input shaft/tailshaft rotates. If there is excessive slop between the input shaft and the crownwheel it will make noise and could chew out your crownwheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
×
×
  • Create New...