Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I've had a 3x2bolt axle r180 diff in my cefiro. I went to a local wreker and they had a whole rear subframe, which they said is from cefiro. I bought it.

It was a R200 diff (5X1 bolt axles) with bigger stabilizer bar. Thicker than my old one by about 1cm o so. So I bought it. I thought it was a normal open diff and stuff. Cause we couldn't turn the wheels, because one of the calipers was jammed.

Today we bolted the new R200 and 5x1 bolt axles to my old subframe and installed everything. Went for a spin. It was much more better at doing donuts than open diff LOL. Then we went to test it on the highway. The car wasn't stable and it had those really nasty sounds when I was accelerating.

Those weren't clicking, more aggressive. Pretty scary :)

Anyway, we came back, changed the tires, cause my right tire was really bad cause of the open diff madness the other day. So stability was there, when I accelerated everything was fine no scary sounds. The sounds appeared in those slow turns. When I came on gas it was like something jamming in the back and those loud and scary clanking-clicking sounds. The car was vibrating a bit while turning. When I disengaged the clutch the sounds disappeared. It seems they only come when I accelerate while turning in those low speed corners. I assume I got some kind of 1-way diff, since it locks up on acceleration. And if its from cefiro, as the guys said. (could be some other rwd nissan ?)

Did some of you experience same kind of stuff in your cars ? People use lockers, 2-way diffs here. Do they behave in the same way, like in my case ? )

And what could be the problem ? Wrong oil ?(we used shell gear oil). Not enough oil ?(We added oil untill we saw it through the the little hole.)

Please advise me on my little problem. It's really annoying, when the car is rattling and stuff.

Thanks in advance !

P.S.

Mark on the final gear : 46:12, does it mean something ?)) Good for me or bad ? LOL

Below is my original rear subframe, the new R200 subframe i got with some wicked diff.

th_IMG_1239_3_1.jpgth_IMG_1240_4_1.jpgth_IMG_1243_5_1.jpg

th_IMG_1244_6_1.jpgth_IMG_1245_7_1.jpgth_IMG_1246_8_1.jpg

th_IMG_1248_10_1.jpgth_IMG_1259_17_1.jpgth_IMG_1260_18_1.jpg

th_IMG_1251_12_1.jpgth_IMG_1253_13_1.jpgth_IMG_1254_14_1.jpg

th_IMG_1257_15_1.jpgth_IMG_1258_16_1.jpg

Edited by robots

Maybe I put it wrong :P

When I'm in neutral it doesn't clunk, when in gear with clutch disengaged it doesn't clunk. It only does that when I accelerate. So it's 1 way, i think.

I just don't think it should make that loud noise and rattle the car so much. Its stock lsd, so it's pretty strange to me.

Cheers !

Maybe I put it wrong :)

When I'm in neutral it doesn't clunk, when in gear with clutch disengaged it doesn't clunk. It only does that when I accelerate. So it's 1 way, i think.

I just don't think it should make that loud noise and rattle the car so much. Its stock lsd, so it's pretty strange to me.

Cheers !

there are no R200 1 ways... no such thing.

a Two way lsd will clunk when loaded up, that means accel on sharp turns if you back off and coast through or in neutral. it wont load the clutch plates up enough to lock them, so no clunking.

perfectally normal behavior for a 2 way.

Thanks!

Actually it clunks when Iback of the throttle and coast in neutral through very tight turns (parking lot). And car jerks, when outside wheel can't keep up with the inside.

I will take a proper look next weekends.

I think its to tight ).

Will post up some pics then.

Edited by robots

also just to be sure check U-joints and mount bushings. and make sure everything is tightend. dont forget your LUGNUTS... yeah i know stupid but i have made the mistake of forgeting to retighten the lugnuts after a few miles and i thought it was my diff but the wheel was just falling off haha...

ibve done that also... several times now :nyaanyaa:

but yeah, the diff prob is tight, however rest assured its a good thing, and on higher speed corners etc ect it will be an awesome thing.

So put up with some low speed jerkyness for some high speed fun :laugh:

Sounds like a mechanical 1.5 or 2 way.

They best way to test is A) Look at the diff centre and check for a shape like this:

<> = Will equal a 2way

th_IMG_1258_16_1.jpg

You'll find what im talking about in the centre of this photo, its hard to see in the pic but its through the "holes" in the centre that the crown gear wraps around.

Alternatively, when moving into a corner at reasonbly high revs say 4-5k, back the gas right off which will cause alot of negative torque through the drive. If the car shudders, its because the inside wheel is slowing due to the neg torque from the motor and the outside cornering wheel is being forced to slow by the diff locking it momentarily.

This is what a 2 way is designed for in the case of coming off the gas really quickly rather than just one wheel locking and unbalancing the car both with lock in a 2 way.

Thats why drifters can "lift off" drift with alot more control with a 2 way LSD just by coming off the throttle at the right time.

Oh yeah, The reason if your in neutral, or on the clutch its quiet is mechanical LSD's are all based on torque, no torque no action = quiet.

I sometimes find when I put a new centre in I just have to put the clutch right in to make tight turns, or when taking off while turning such as out of a street just control the torque with the clutch afterall thats what its there for.

Its kinda hard to explain and I am hungover, but I hope this helps :P

Edited by BasketCase
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey, guys !

Can I use Motul 75W90 Gear Oil or Redline High Performance Gear Oil 75W90(I think this one contains additives for lsd).

What should I put in ?

Any other options ?

How much oil should I put in ? 1L ?

Thanks !

Use Penrite Limslip diff oil, 85W-140. Very quiet and very cheap. $24 for 2.5L.

Your diff will take about 1.5L, probably a bit more

Edited by salad

Can you recommend something else ? :) I don't think I can find it in China( I was just able to find those 2. Could they work ? Could any other 85W-140 work ? 76 maybe ? )

Or any other brand ?

Edited by robots

I've took the thing out on weekends. Didn't find any sings of tear or wear.

Added 85W-140 Valvoline gear oil. It said, that you could use that oil with limited slip diffs. So here are the pics.

I guess my one is 1way or 1.5 way.

according to cusco:i-33.jpg

Anyway. Its still noisy and the car rattles. A little less then before though.

th_IMG_1773_7_1.jpgth_IMG_1772_6_1.jpgth_IMG_1771_5_1.jpgth_IMG_1770_4_1.jpg

th_IMG_1769_3_1.jpgth_IMG_1768_2_1.jpgth_IMG_1767_1_1.jpg

It could be backlash? If the diff is in the car... lift the car up on stands, put it in gear, take the handbrake off, climb under the car, see how much you can rotate the wheel/halfshaft before the input shaft/tailshaft rotates. If there is excessive slop between the input shaft and the crownwheel it will make noise and could chew out your crownwheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...