Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The lights on my gauge cluster are very dim. I pulled the cluster out the other day and found that there are little blue 'caps' over the globes. Are these normal?

Anyway I wanted to goto another colour, probably using LED's, any ideas on what would be the best lighting colour that I can still see?

TIA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148530-changing-globes-in-gauge-cluster/
Share on other sites

Here you go mate this UK skyline thread is great and useful....read all of it to find out all the tricks, including a/c and clock colour change....also hazard and rear de-mist LEDS .....hope it helps

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...light=dash+LEDs

Edited by Allkiller
  • 3 weeks later...

I am also looking to change my dash globes, as well as A/c controls, ignition, clock, all lighting on dash to LEDs.

Can anyone run through a list of what to order and how many? Please!

Any help would be most appreciated!

ive been reading over this gear for while..

R32 cluster needs 6 globes .. colour of your choice .. Depending on your needle colour id stear clear of blue and toward green or red... blue is the brightest colour to the human eye so you can see why..

As for climate control air con you need to use led's I wouldnt use over 1000mcd which you can grab from jaycar or dicksmith.. you will also need resistors .. search google for resistor calulator to find out once you find the globes or even ask jaycar guys..

Two documents you will need are on SAU www.skylinesaustralia.com.au search for LED and cluster and should pop up.. or go directly to the tutorial option in the forum page 3 of results i think..

Follow them its easy as pie for cluster.. t10 globes.. same as park lights .. LEDs require some soldering!

Hi, only some of the LED's need soldering the ones in the A/C do not, they need unwinding drilling out and re winding with the new leds.......all the info is in the thread i posted its a bit all over the place but it is all there.

Blue or red come out best Green makes the Gauge needles very hard to see at night.

Blue looks very good....thats why most of the UK skylines have this mod.

And remember the LEDS only work one way round so if it does nt work turn it round...easy in the gauge cluster not so easy when you ve just soldered them in and both are wrong, AARRGGGHHH

Edited by Allkiller

if you want some realy good leds for the cluster goto www.superbrightleds.com and get the WLED-B5 leds. These ones light up the cluster realy bright and evenly, with all the other brands the color is faded in spots in the cluster.

on mine i changed the cluster, climate, cig lighter and key thingy.... the key thing looks realy cool from outside the car :(

post-19018-1168730094.jpg

post-19018-1168730105.jpg

whats this blue gel stuff you speak of :O ?? and how do u do it :O ??

Nice Justin....they are bright must be 180 degree LED's too.

have you put blue theatre lighting gel behind the clock and A/C read out yet....job done

Its the stuff they put in the lights to create colour....its calld Gel.

Most theatres have it and they will have bits they throw out when the centres get burnt by the 650 watt lamps.....wont happen on the Clock or A/C

I'd guess they'd sell or give you some real cheap.

You just place it between the clock read out and cover, same with the A/C..... means taking the fascia off again

Should look like this....dont use too dark a blue or you wont see the read out at night when it dims with the headlights on

post-33724-1168794979.jpg

post-33724-1168795029.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
The lights on my gauge cluster are very dim. I pulled the cluster out the other day and found that there are little blue 'caps' over the globes. Are these normal?

Anyway I wanted to goto another colour, probably using LED's, any ideas on what would be the best lighting colour that I can still see?

TIA

hey the caps ar normal on the globes thats how they come, ive changed my globes over to leds several times i found that red was the best to see the guages and the brightest when blue was just too dark to see.

if you want some realy good leds for the cluster goto www.superbrightleds.com and get the WLED-B5 leds. These ones light up the cluster realy bright and evenly, with all the other brands the color is faded in spots in the cluster.

on mine i changed the cluster, climate, cig lighter and key thingy.... the key thing looks realy cool from outside the car :P

That looks awesome, ive been searching for different options to change the boring standard cluster, was gonna go with those white reverse gauge things but might just use some of those leds, good work!

I did post a link on here a month ago from the UK site telling you how to do everything inc the rear defrost hazard switch and the A/C and Clock

also the Auto window switch in the door.

Blue works well....green is not to good as it makes the needles almost invisible....its al about light spectrum with the red needles.

try this again....

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...ght=dash+lights

post-33724-1170690344.jpg

Edited by Allkiller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
×
×
  • Create New...