Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Okay guys, decision time! I have searched with no results….

Powder Coating Vs Anodizing

1. Which is better?

2. Which last longer?

3. Which will act better as a heat “radiator”?

4. Which will be less restrictive for airflow and not clog up the fins?

Any further info would be great!

Regards,

Sarkis

From what i have read up so far:

Anodising is "staining" the aluminium surface at a thickness of approx 0.3 - 0.5mm therefore not affecting its thermal properties.

So looks like anodising is the way to go...

Would really appreciate you opinion guys!

Regards,

Sarkis

As I said before, paint is an insulator, but radiator paint is designed for the job so if you must paint use that. Anodizing is no problem.

Powder coating - you may as well just go back to stock IC or blow up your engine now.

Thanks guys! I have also read that anodising can damage the IC fins due to the sulfuric acid wash.. is this true?

Would radiator paint fade/flake off the polished parts of the IC?

Regards,

Sarkis

I have painted my intercooler black and can't see it making bugger all difference to it's efficiency if done sensibly. I masked up the rear of the cooler and the sides of the end tanks and only painted the front so it looks stealth but still allows the majority of it's surface area to be free of paint.

I bought good quality etch primer and matte black acrylic paint and laid a very light coat of each on the front of the core and end tanks. The primer was just to try and guard against stone chips etc. By masking the entire rear of the core you stop the majority of paint being passed through the core and coating the cooling fins. My cooler still works great.

Thanks for the replies... i wanted to get my FMIC black for the stealth look rather then performance or cooling gains... so far it seems that a VERY light coat of radiator paint or Anodising is the way to go...

Got any pics please krizza_ca18det?

Cheers

I would also be concerned about the durability cause a stealth black intercooler with stonechips/flaking paint will look very shit house and cheap. Would a black mesh insert over the intercooler be a better option and also guard against said stone chips?

Yeah ring around and get a few prices. You have two options in getting it anodised or that radiator paint. If anodising doesnt wreck the fins or look patchy that seems the best option as it wouldnt stone chip. Let us know what prices you come up with for both as im going to get mine done as i prefer the stealthy factory look.

Here are a couple of pics I took of my cooler this arvo. Only one small stone chip after a year of use ( but plenty of bugs! ). I don't have any pics of my mates cooler but it doesn't look too bad. I can't help you with a price either, as his uncle owns an anodising business so he got it done for free.

post-4094-1169200406.jpg

post-4094-1169200626.jpg

Sarkis have you seen the avo ones

http://www.avoturbo.com/avoshop/product_in...products_id=241

They make them in black and they use the existing intercooler lines. Easy installation. I will show you my stealthy kit next time.

anodising is so thin it is measured in microns. The longer they leave the item in, the thicker the anodising. Anodising is one of the most hard wearing and durable surface coatings you can possibly do. The intercooler would probably want 5-20 microns, BUT with some anodising on aluminium you get a very Cloudy/ Patchy finish, and can look quite bad.

If you choose to paint it, i would recommend using a thin first coat of etch primer. You can use any automotive paint/laquer on it, heat wont be a problem.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
×
×
  • Create New...