Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Up For A Cash Job


R32JSN
 Share

Recommended Posts

f**ked my wrist being a drunken idiot at my Christmas Work party and can't use two hands. Just wondering if anyone would be up for a cash job changing my Alternator? If you could let me know that'd be sweet.

At first I thought I had popped my RB. I've kinda worked it out that the Alternator must be cooked, because I keep killing batterys. The engine is full of oil and is fine. It starts and idles but doesn't charge. I can't really think of anything else. My mechanic (Who I won't name) was in a rush and made a simple mistake by crossing the Negative and Positive terminals over when installing the new batterys about 10 weeks ago. It's run fine since, but needs a tune but didn't fry anything except the Ignitor Module, which we fixed. Can anyone else think of anything?

For the record I got a RB20DET (From Bart - Crazy Imports) with GTR Injectors, LumpyROM, Bee*R limiter, 044 Fuel Pump, FMIC etc

Sold my Trust TD06-20G as I'm hunting for a HKS 2535 or something like it.

Thanks - Jason :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc.  What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?
    • OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.
    • Reason I say this is I have seen broken ones, in drift, drag and even behind a stock Z. I do appreciate most of the time its the synchro's that go.   Trouble with quoting HP is it doesn't really say how strong the box is.  I've not seen many CD00X box's make it past a mid 9(150mph) I have seen about a stock R33 RB25 box's run a 9 too, they all go boom at some point though.   Another clue is they make gearsets for CD00X box's too, wouldn't be a market if they didn't break or have a limit people are going past.   I totally agree it is a strong box, just have to weigh up the true total cost of the conversion vs rebuilding with a good gearset. 
    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
×
×
  • Create New...