Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am offering for sale my 180SX.

S13 180SX 1990

Green compliance plate

1 owner since import 6 odd years ago

Engine/Powertrain

RB25DET R34 NEO

Lots of polishing, painting & detailling

Nismo 555cc (pink) injectors

Custom Fuel Rail with twin feed

Turbonetics T60 turbo (polished cover)

HKS50mm wastegate

Custom stainless thickwall mainfold plus 2" screamer

Autronic SM4 management system including boost control, launch control, ignition multiplexer etc

Turbosmart V port BOV in custom red anodise

Custom inlet plenum with tapered tube runners, bellmouths and optimised volume (as per Borneo's Ceffy - we made 2)

Nissan Infinity Throttle Body

600x300x75 intercooler with polished piping and silicone hose (genuine early Hybrid)

Apex N1 exhaust, full polished stainless cat back

Custom 3.5 inch stainless front pipe & Cat replacement

Huge K&N Pod (6inch stainless funnel to turbo)

Catch can with drain-back

Loads of Speedflow stuff

Custom radiator

Remote radiator filler/header tank

High flow thermo fans (SPAL x3) and ductwork

Bosch Motorsport fuel pump, in tank

Sard Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

RB25 5 speed box (the big one!!)

Custom Tailshaft

Extreme XHD clutch with 9 puck ceramic disc and explosion proof cover

Aluminium flywheel

New Clutch Master & Slave cylinders

Mech LSD with 4.3 gearing

Power steering cooler

New Water Pump

New Timing Belt

Engine relocated lower and further back than ‘typical’ – approx 25mm rearward for improved weight distribution and good shifter positioning.

Suspension/Steering

Whiteline sway bars

Whiteline poly bushes throughout including pineapples

JIC radius rods

D2 Racing Sports D1 Spec Adjustable Coil-overs

Hicas removed (runs a lock bar)

Carbon fibre front and rear strut braces

R33 steering rack & Pump

5-stud conversion using S15 parts (mostly new!)

Brakes

R32 GTR 4 piston front calipers with DBA4000 series 324x30 R34 GTR rotors (using professionally made dogbones)

R32 GTR 2 piston rear calipers with 300x18 rotors

R32 GTR master cylinder (compatible with factory abs)

R32 GTR Internal drum handbrake

Braided rear brake lines

Nissan genuine pads

Factory ABS

Wheels/Tyres

18” ‘Volk Evo4 forged lightweight’ wheels (8's front, 9's rear)

235/40 rubber up front and 265/35 down back (not much tread there!!)

Interior

S15 front seats

Factory head up display (still works!)

Tacho recalibrated to display correct RPM for 6 cylinder

Kenwood CD tuner

Rockford Fosgate front speakers, in stock location

Pioneer rear speakers, in stock location

Tint

Alarm with locking & battery back-up siren

Late S13 SR digital climate controller

Greddy Electronic Boost, Oil Temp, Water Temp & Exhaust Temp Gauges

Greddy single gauge A pillar pod

Mudd Sports 3 gauge on dash pod

Air cond has been removed

Body

Custom Red pearl paint with 'House of Kolor' Rainbow 5 colour flake

Origin Type 2 Carbon Fibre Bonnet (this is HORN!!!)

Genuine Wise Sports front bumper, modified and ducted

Genuine Nismo side skirts

Genuine Nissan rear mud flaps

Nissan Type-X rear wing (late model 180SX)

Clear front and side indicators

Factory Sunroof (with new seal)

Uprated headlight globes

General

Price is A$25,000.

This is a comprehensive no-shortcut long time build. Anyone who has seen the car will confirm this.

Has been a magazine feature car (long time ago - dont ask me when) and will have another feature completed shortly.

Was used by Adelaide Clutch for their display at Auto Salon earlier this year.

Car is not used at all and needs to go.

Some pics following. More info etc to genuine interested parties.

2006122173431_DSC01092s.JPG

2006122173451_DSC01093s.JPG

200612217359_DSC01095s.JPG

2006122713522_DSC01121s.JPG

Call me on 0418822444

--------------------

Glenn Campbell (aka Lumpy)

Edited by LUMPY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148721-lumpys-180sx-rb25neo/
Share on other sites

Bump for one of the old school of Aussie S13 import owners from way back from another old crusty bastard.

I'm sort of hoping youre at least going to buy an S15 with the funds from this baby :)

Thanks! Yep, getting crustier by the minute!

There is an S15 in the stable now - being built for DA next year.

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...