Electronic Boost Controller

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Yeah, if you can save a few hundred dollars and it still provide all the fuctionality. How many programmable boost settings does it have?

See'ya:burnout:

[PSIKO]

Paul: the display is 79mmx39mm - VERY small

It allows for two psi levels, low and high

essentially that is what it does, nothing like holding wastegates or the like, it merely electronically controls the boost via its solenoid and a MAP sensor (I had to install an r32 one since the sr doesn't have any) - ~20 bux for a 2BAR MAP if you do need one

Hybrid EBC

a DEFINATE bargain if you ask me, and yeah I think hikari are selling them for $320 with some month special of free shipping too, or something

If there are any RS drivers out there, will get back to you bout the map on them since I'm putting one in tomorrow

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Still sounds like a nice and cheap way to control boost:D

See'ya:burnout:

[hippy]

this is the advertisement on the site:

STOP PLAYING WITH YOUR KNOBS !!

you don't have to PUT UP WITH UNREGULATED BOOST OVER SHOOT any more !! Hybrid FULL electronic boost controller is the best value for money! This product is the result of constant refinement on the street and track. Hybrid full electronic boost controller not only spools up the turbo quicker but also regulates the boost. Features: *Microprocessor controlled *Closed/open loop design *Accurate boost regulation *Fast boost attenuation *Two boost settings *Compact design *Fully in cabin adjustment *Competitive price *9bar /130psi solenoid *Easy installation Built in 2 preset boost adjustment that allows u to change or switch your boost setting instantly in your cabin. This unique full electronic design is ideal for launch control (e.g. low boost to launch then high boost for acceleration ) not only adjust the boost but also regulates it for your safety.

DISCLAIMER - THE BUYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR PROPER INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF THE BOOST CONTROLLER . ALTERING ANY VEHICLE FROM Its STOCK CONFIGURATION CAN BE DANGEROUS AND/OR CAUSE FAILURE. IF YOU FEEL YOU ARE UNABLE TO SAFELY COMPLETE THIS INSTALLATION, YOU MAY WANT TO CONSIDER BRINGING THE VEHICLE TO A PROFESSIONAL OR CONTACT powerdigger.com FOR FURTHER ASSISTANCE. powerdigger.com IS NOT LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OR INJURY DUE TO USING THIS BOOST CONTROLLER.

i have a question:

how can it be both closed and open loop design, isn't it one or the other unless there is a switch somewhere?

[b2barker]

Originally posted by hippy

i have a question:

how can it be both closed and open loop design, isn't it one or the other unless there is a switch somewhere?

Your ECU runs closed loop with feedback from the O2 sensor at low load and open loop under the hammer, so it uses both.

I am not sure how this would apply to an EBC. The feedback in that case is the MAP sensor, but I don't know why it would run at any time ignoring the MAP. That would be just operating like a manual bleed valve.

[red17]

Radium,

What HKS EVC do you have? The very first one? Or the one with the LCD screen? Mines just recently started playing up, even when set to minimum level the boost is going up and down all the time, sometimes peaking over 1 bar. Its ruted.

Which pipes did you remove?

Red17

[RB20LagWagon]

Originally posted by skyzerr33

if u get the hybrid i will kill u

never heard of it and no one seems to use it

u wanna be the giunea pig

teh blitz duel sbc is good, about the cheapest apart from the profec b

Just cause your ignorant, doesnt mean it isnt worth getting. THough for the ricers out there isnt isnt the best ebc, but value for money it is.

[RadiuM]

Originally posted by red17

Radium,

What HKS EVC do you have? The very first one? Or the one with the LCD screen? Mines just recently started playing up, even when set to minimum level the boost is going up and down all the time, sometimes peaking over 1 bar. Its ruted.  

Which pipes did you remove?  

Red17

i have the HKS EVC III

thats exactly what mine was doing and this morning while i got to line up against an S2000, it started doing the same god damn thing.. AAAAAAAARGH.

i just removed the pipes from the controller box in the engine bay, gave them a good blowing. this weekend i might take them all completely off and do the same.

back before it was fully fubar'd, it use to spike over 1.1bar, now about 10% of the time (like this morning) it bounces about 0.1 around what i have it set at.

no idea what the problem is.

Shaun

[FIL]

dammit shaun... mine has started doing that too... my actuator isnt mounted the right way in the engine bay, so i'm hoping that fixing that will sort it out.. otherwise i just have to leave it set at about 0.8 bar so it bounces to 0.98 and then back to a sane level

[FIL]

Originally posted by PSIKO

Paul: the display is 79mmx39mm - VERY small

It allows for two psi levels, low and high

essentially that is what it does, nothing like holding wastegates or the like, it merely electronically controls the boost via its solenoid and a MAP sensor (I had to install an r32 one since the sr doesn't have any) - ~20 bux for a 2BAR MAP if you do need one

The more expensive ones don't "hold the wastegate".. they just bleed off all the boost until you get really close to the point you've set it at...

ie. instead of having real boost = 5psi, modified boost = 5psi

and real boost = 9psi, modified boost = 6.5psi

until real boost = 12psi at which point the solenoid shuts off and shows the wastegate full boost causing it to open fully...

the controller is bleeding off air even when you are making less than stock boost, so as to keep the wastegate fully closed by showing it 0psi until you hit say 11.5psi, at which point it raises it to almost stock levels, and then finally, lets go altogether....

(When you think about it, this "intelligent" system, can be responsible for boost spiking like Shaun and myself experience from time to time, and it may be that we really need to look at the settings in our controllers (in the case of the EVC III, the Offset settings affect how the controller shapes the boot curve that the wastegate see's)

[osc@r]

Well at least it's just not me having problems with the HKS EVC 3. Mine is set at 0.95 and will sit there perfectly untill i past 6000 rpm, then it slowly but surely creeps upwards until i hit about 1.15 bar. Mine never seems to be lower than 0.95 but will ALWAYS creep up in the high end. Any suggestions appreciated.

[adam 32]

its not overboost cos the gain is set too high is it? that one has fuzzy logic tho doesnt it...

i also read that a leak or crack in any of the vacuum lines would cause boost creep

[FIL]

i think mines a gain issue, it peaks about 0.2 bar higher than i want it, then drops back pretty quickly (but not quick enough to avoid hitting the boost cut) and sits perfectly steady where i set it at...

aside from that issue, it's been perfect...

i think it's either because the solenoid part has been mounted horizontally, and it should be mounted vertically, or it's a gain issue...

[predator]

Back to the ProfecB .. i got one installed in my car at the moment, and used to have a turbosmart dualstage..

Seems to do pretty well at holding 13psi most of the time, although can vary on the ambient temperatures and how hard i have been running it.

I like the sharpness switch.. basically how quickly the boost builds up and is released.. set it to 3/4 to chirp the tyres..wwweeee.

Its a good little unit. Sure it doesn't have many of the wizbangs of say the AVC-R but most of the time you wouldn't need them anyway.

The profec has on/off, high/low switch, and high and low boost knobs and funky green lights and thats about it, but it does the job probably equally as well as some of the more expensive units.

[adam 32]

fil

so the way in which the solenoid is mounted has an effect on how it holds boost??

[FIL]

i dont know if it really does, but the manual does specify that in the case of the EVC III, the solenoid unit should be mounted vertically with the 3 air lines poking out the top, the wiring loom out the bottom, and the writing the right way up on the side....

[PSIKO]

Originally posted by FIL

i dont know if it really does, but the manual does specify that in the case of the EVC III, the solenoid unit should be mounted vertically with the 3 air lines poking out the top, the wiring loom out the bottom, and the writing the right way up on the side....

I'd say that the reason they stated the orientation was more to do with allowing you to get the hosing into the right part, instead of getting it backward, or putting it into the ext wastegate part

I've never seen a solenoid for the EVC3, and whether they have more than one aux attachment point ... but mine floats around inside my engine bay (until I attach it properly), but still works bloody well

But I HIGHLY doubt the orientation has any effect on how it performs

[RON-15H]

25GTT

Theres a few of these electronic boost controllers on ebay this week i think it would be worth checking out

i just recently bought a blitz ebc, previously i had a bleed valve this is much beta no laaaagggg instant boost i would recomend this my mate has the profec b which is also a great unit it has an extra function that allows the boost to come on instant when the desired psi is meet.

but you will feel the diffrence when you upgrade, well i did.

[FIL]

psiko: i guess i'll just have to see how it goes... mind you, i've also taken over a metre of tubing out of the signal line from the manifold by mounting the solenoid on the intake manifold itself, instead of using a line run from about level with one strut tower, to the back of the bay, along the firewall and down to the other strut tower...

I've also managed to remove about 6 inches from the lines to the wastegates and compressor housings, although those lines are still a lot longer than I'd like...

and while I was at it, I mounted the solenoid unit how HKS intended it to be done, which may or may not be neccessary, but seeing as I was fiddling with it at the time....

I would have thought that as far as getting the ports right, having the diagram of the writing on the controller would be enough for that, and stating clearly in the instructions that the 3 ports connected to hoses "must be upwards" and the blanked off port "must be downwards" was more for some other reason....