Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently in the process of setting my car up for my first track day in January, and I currently need new rear tyres quite badly. I want to try a track day with street tyres first, because if I don't like it, I don't have a wasted $1600 bill from buying semi's.

What tyres would you guys suggest?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/
Share on other sites

I'm in the same boat as you. Want semi's later but now i want street tyres that will be fine for the occasional track day.

I've heard that Michelin Pilot Sport are good.

Yeah those Michelin's seem quite good from what I have read. What price range you think they'd fall into? (235/40/18)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2774951
Share on other sites

Theres not a huge difference in street tyres on the track, most street tyres heat up very quick and get squirmy. In general the better the tyre on the street, the better it will be on the track, but only marginally. Just get whatever you want for street and go out there with them on the track and have some fun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2775386
Share on other sites

It would be best to have the same brand/model of tyres on all corners of the car, as having a mismatch can lead to the tyres on one end of the car over heating or going off before the others, causing all sorts of handling problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2777216
Share on other sites

Well I spoke with the tyre guy that I buy my tyres from, and he suggested if I were to go for street I should use Toyo T1R's, although he seems to recommend the Kumho semi slicks (I think they were V70a) instead. Im seriously thinking about the semi's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2777480
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Another option for a good comprimise tyre is the Federal 595RS. Speak to President James as Federal are looking at giving SAUVIC members discounts on their tyres. He has some on his EVO now and they look pretty good.

http://www.federaltire.com/en/html/pdetail...line=1&ID=3

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2805614
Share on other sites

I did a 1.35 at winton using Nangkang NS2's lol...... They are fine , just learn how to drive the car!! but they will go sloppy after 5 or so laps

The long track?? In what??

And Shane, I wouldn't worry about not liking the track days, you'll be hooked >_<

Also, sorry about the delay in sending those pics, I haven't had access to my other computer. I'll send what I've got through to you now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2805691
Share on other sites

Hmm, he told me he did 1.37 (which is still pretty impressive going by other peoples times) with the Nankangs and was hoping to crack 1.35 with semis

S13 with T518z, nothing crazy.

Is it even possible on street tyres?

Edited by salad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2806273
Share on other sites

Rowdy - No.

Basically Chris and I were discussing this yesterday and we have decided that moddified class will be for tyres with a UTQG of below 100.

So that means tyres such as the Federal 595RS (UTQG 180), Falken Azien RT615 (UTQG 200) and Toyo R1A (UTQG 100) will all be eligable for Standard Class.

We will put up a list shortly of all tyres that will fall into moddified class but the Federals will definitely be in standard class.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148751-street-tyres/#findComment-2808812
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...