Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had may car at the mechanics late last week for a remap to suit the new turbo combo, much to my dissapointment there wasnt a whole lot of improvment in max power.

The current set up is an emanage ultimate, gt30/vg30, with a blitz sbc controlling boost.

While i am quite happy with the way the car drives i would still like to squeeze a little more out of it.

The suporting mods ive been told should see me around the 200 awkw mark, but the best so far was

176 on boost setting 4, 1.1 bar.

my problem is this, beyond this level, vehicle boost cuts. the mechanics have scoped and data logged to determine injector and air flow meter ranges but neither were the cause of boost cut, also inspected for boost sensing devices for factory ecu, none were evident.

They seem to think that the internal mapping of the factory ecu offers fuel cut at certain rpm when boost causes specific injector demand.

has any one else had this problem I know there are a quite a few s1 out there that have 200awk and above,

any ideas or advice would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148814-not-quite-there-yet/
Share on other sites

yeah id also like to know as i cant adjust my boost at all without the boost cut ... 100% factory boost spec with the annoying dual stage boost control. I tried doing the boost solenoid trick and it jus hit the boost cut (can run it standard tho and no probs??? weird)

So now i have a hi flow turbo and im back to fully stock boost ... feels tha same as a stock turbo runnin about 11-12 pounds ... very annoying especially when i got smoked badly by someone on this forum the other day when they werent even in a Nissan :pirate: you know who u are!! :laugh:

cmon guys an girls any help??

Lee

again,people keep denying the boost cut exists,when it does. rich and retard does NOT put your head through the windscreen in the same way the boost cut does.

1.1bar is just over a kg/cm2,which is where my series 2 oes the same thing - it CUTS the ignition. it doesn't retard it a few degrees,it stops it.

a retard gives you a dull feeling,a cut stops the party entirely,which is what happens. again,do people want a demo? I'm still happy to be proven wrong in person on this.

Justin...

I think the series 2 does monitor the boost at the ECU but the series 1 doesn't. They both run an R34 style of ECU but the series 1 is the only one to run the older RB25DET with this ECU. This means a few changes such as no facility for oil temp monitoring etc. I would follow wolverines advice.

again,people keep denying the boost cut exists,when it does. rich and retard does NOT put your head through the windscreen in the same way the boost cut does.

1.1bar is just over a kg/cm2,which is where my series 2 oes the same thing - it CUTS the ignition. it doesn't retard it a few degrees,it stops it.

a retard gives you a dull feeling,a cut stops the party entirely,which is what happens. again,do people want a demo? I'm still happy to be proven wrong in person on this.

Justin...

had mine on the dyno by a well respected tuner in Perth and he was the one that said it was the boost cut. confusing :P

again,people keep denying the boost cut exists,when it does. rich and retard does NOT put your head through the windscreen in the same way the boost cut does.

1.1bar is just over a kg/cm2,which is where my series 2 oes the same thing - it CUTS the ignition. it doesn't retard it a few degrees,it stops it.

a retard gives you a dull feeling,a cut stops the party entirely,which is what happens. again,do people want a demo? I'm still happy to be proven wrong in person on this.

Justin...

Yup, I know exactly what you are feeling there. With the SAFC and SITC you can tune around these, use a Z32 air flow meter too for better resolution for the tune. Make sure you have a good fuel pump and maybe a nismo fuel reg, then get it tuned on the dyno. Obviously a good exhaust & cool air supply is a necessity.

You'll get around that BAM into the windscreen feeling :(

Ive got that problem now, had everything tuned nicely with the stnd turbo but with the highflow now on, winding the boost to 14psi results in "head-2-windscreen" sydrome - as you describe, its like the ecu just shuts up shop, a feeling very similar to when you hit the revlimiter in 4th gear on a sportsbike = over the front you go!

ggrrr need a retune! need funds lol :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...