Stagea Tie Rod Replacement, How

[kiwi_rock]

Hi guys,

I've got a '96 RWD stagea, about 123,000K's it's up to now, thrown about 40,000 on in the past year and a half.

I've been rotating the tires and found some grease lurking around and tracked it down to a stuffed boot on the ball joint of the drivers side tie rod.

I'm thinking about just replacing the entire tie rod ends on both side as the parts store reckon about $25 per replacement kit.

So I've removed the castle nut and with some downward pressure gave the casting on the hub a swift belt with a hammer to try and loosen the tie rod incase it's still reusable. There doesn't appear to be any play but I can fell some gritty dirt in the joint.

Anyway, the tie rod end refuses to slip out, any other ideas of a nice way to remove it without stuffing it?

BTW, I'm no mechanic, but I'm technically minded. So thought I'd give it ago and since I've got the time over the holidays before I need it in 2 weeks to go to the airport a few hundred K's away and the local mechanics are fully booked during that time.

But I can slip in for a wheel alignment once I've done the work myself.

Thanks for any help, kind regards.

Gavin.

[Stinky Rooster]

If you have 2 hammers, I have always found it useful to put 1 against the side of the eye (that the ball joint) is located in, and give the other side a few hard taps with the other hammer. It sometimes helps to "wake up" the lock on the taper and help loosen it when you knock it from the top. This problem occurs with every ball joint I have ever done so you are not an orphan here mate!

[mr manfringinsen]

There is a tool you can buy which looks like a large two prong fork which tapers down to a point. You put the fork between the steering arm and ball joint and belt the end with a lump hammer, like a wedge it forces the ball joint out. It saves a lot of heartache. I don't think there is a spare parts shop I've been in that wouldn't have one of these on the shelf. It will wreck the rubber boot on the ball joint when you remove it but it sounds like your ball joint is shot anyway.

The tool comes in two or three sizes.

[Appealing]

There is also another tool for this, it's called a ball joint splitter, (for obvious reasons). Should be available from Repco, or Coventry's. It has a fork that sits over the ball joint and a bolt that is positioned onto the top of the taper, you just keep doing it up until either the ball joint gives or the tool breaks! Tow hammers works really well, causes slight ovality to the hole that the taper sits in thereby popping it out. A combination of the above is sometimes required. I also have a fork type and find this a useful tool, (not just for ball joints). I should hope that by the time you get all this info you have done the job. haha

[Ska]

I'm thinking about just replacing the entire tie rod ends on both side as the parts store reckon about $25 per replacement kit.

So what replacement kit did you buy?

[Ska]

Found it, the search is a great tool

Hey Brad, the part number your after is 48520-23U26.

Had to buy some last year for rego, got them through Klosters.

[overpowered]

get a 2 arm pulley like they use for harmonic balancer removal (except they use 3 arms and are way way bigger) and it will come out easy as hell, ive removed mine about 10-15 times everytime the motor comes in and out so its definately a tool to make it easier, and belting it with a hammer even with the nut on will just damage the nut head and wreck the threads,

those ball joint splitters are bloody useless too ive got one and it didnt work at all.

if u cant understand what tool im talking about then let me know and ill take a pic of it for you

hope it helps mate

*edit* whoops just noticed the post is old, sorry ill leave the info for future reference for anyone else needing the do the job

Edited March 20, 2007 by overpowered

[yokotas13]

everytime i change them

i just take a big brass hammer take hte nut off...give it one or two big whacks on the side not directly on the stud thing nad it pops right out.

[jbonevia]

i always screw an old wheel nut onto the thread and then bash the wheel nut with a hammer - works every time and doesnt damage the tie rod. Use a wheel nut that has a covered end on it though or dont screw it on all the way or you will damage the tie rod thread and be unable to unscrew the wheel nut!

[stasis]

does nybody knows which tie rod will fit the 250rs? or a part number? Thanks guys. i dont have FAST so i cant check it

[Ska]

Yudi, PM me your VIN number and I'll tell you what the Nissan part number is, I assume it would be the same as the RS model series though?

[stasis]

Yudi, PM me your VIN number and I'll tell you what the Nissan part number is, I assume it would be the same as the RS model series though?

Ok thanks cyrus but will have to wait till when i get back to Oz. im overseas at the moment. thanks again

[beastien]

It is the same part for all stageas