Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys the time has come to change the oil in my gearbox for my r33 i just want to know what oil have people tried and found good for it? i was thinking of trying the Motul Gear 300 anyone used that before?

And also how much oil do i need for the gearbox

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148894-what-gearbox-oil-for-my-r33-manual/
Share on other sites

3.7-8 L is the capacity.

It's pretty hard to drain it all. My box took approx 3.5L of oil.

Castrol VMX 80 is the recommended oil in the shop manual. Costs approx $50 for 4 L from memory.

I'm personally using motul gear 300 (fully synth). RRP of $29 for 1L so 120 for 4L.

Redline Shockproof is also good at $90-120.

Thanks for all your helps guys i think ill give the Motul a try as ive been using that brand oil for my engine with no probs :/

Also any recommendations for what oil i should be using in my diff also? its just the standard vsld? because that needs to be changed also.

Edited by /2on

i changed all my oils in the diffs and gearbox.. using motul oils and i'm not a fan of them, my gearbox felt quite different the day i picked it up.. have done 5,000kms now, it must be the viscosity of the motul..

i'll be changing it in another 5,000 to redline shockproof.. hope that fix's the problem..

my 0.02c

^^ I only thought that redline shouldn't be used in relatively new gearboxes unless there is already a problem.

Hopefully someone can clear it up 100% because i'm due for a change and want to be sure before i do.

Cheers

Josh

Seriously guys, in the span of 2 weeks, there have been about 5 posts on gearbox oil.

We've covered the discussion on redline shockproof about 5 times. that's why no one is really answering.

no shit...use search ffs

actually fyi, i did do a search but i couldnt find much info on motul 300v for gearboxes and how people found it, which was really what i wanted to know.....

300V like all Motul 300 oils are Ester based...like redline.

Good shit...300V/Redline and RP are all good gear and engine oils. Ur cant really go wrong with a GL4/GL5 base product.

I went out and bought some oil for my gb today i got the motul ff now its rated at sae75w 140 now is that going to be to thick? cause they didnt have any 75w 90 there...... I tried looking but couldnt see anything in here about what ratings for what oils were best for skylines.

The gearbox has done 120 000k's if that helps aswell

Thanks

Where do people go to get their motul gearbox oil in victoria. From my understanding Repco and Autobarn are dealers in this brand of oil. My problem is that no repco or autobarn in victoria seem to stock motul gear 300 oil. I live in gippsland and i asked both repco and autobarn about getting the oil in but both companies were not too keen on ordering the oil which needs to come from queensland. They say that the transport costs are quite high. Is there somewhere else in vic that sells it. Thanks for your input. :nyaanyaa:

That fluid is called motul gear ff lsd. It is an lsd fluid from memory. Best bet is to get the get the one designed for the gearbox - motul gear 300.

I went out and bought some oil for my gb today i got the motul ff now its rated at sae75w 140 now is that going to be to thick? cause they didnt have any 75w 90 there...... I tried looking but couldnt see anything in here about what ratings for what oils were best for skylines.

The gearbox has done 120 000k's if that helps aswell

Thanks

I would refrain from using a 75W/140 or 80W/140 in a gearbox because the extra thickness can make shifting harder.

Also I take Redline's advice and suggest that Shockproof shouldn't be used in a gearbox unless its the last resort..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...