Jump to content
SAU Community

Eoi: Scissor Door Group Buy

Filecon

By Filecon,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

Filecon Enthusiast

Filecon

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry guys for taking so long to get back to you. I had an operation and was in hospital. I have some photos and can give you feedback on the process.

This is one hell of a job and I am not 100% happy with it either, but shit is it hot. Requires a lot of mods and is by no way straight bolt in. You can forget about bolting... just doesn't happen. Instead of bolts, just cut and weld..... It will take about 1 to 2 days to do.

The hinge originaly supplied was fantastic and solid and wouldn't work as it was too thick for the guard. So a replacement was sent :mad: ... The thin hinge for sports coupes. Well .. I can tell you I want the solid hinge... this thin one has a bit of flex in it. I don't know how the other lambo hinges are, but these have a bit of wobble when they go up. Not major, but not as solid as the first hinges. Some thing I could live with.

I have included some pics of the first hinge installed. We re-inforced the points on the guards where the pressure was going to be applied.

post-33008-1175562569.jpgpost-33008-1175562669.jpgpost-33008-1175565321.jpg

As you can see, we cut out the section where the hinge is bolted on and welded a 3mm plate. The plate was only tacked on for the moment and then welded properly when we were happy at the end. For the door, as you can tell has three bolts. We got a 3mm plate and welded 3 bolts to it. We drilled the holes in the door and put the plate in. The bolts were bolted on to the hinge. Silly me forgot to take a photo of the plate with the bolts. :pirate::ph34r: As you can see a plate was welded to the door where the wiring loom was so we could drill a hole to put the other bolt through. A hole has not been cut to date for the wiring loom, but I'll get to that a little later on.

I took these photos when we did the left hand side.

post-33008-1175565431.jpgpost-33008-1175565138.jpg

we then welded the shocker nipple on and attached the main shocker.

post-33008-1175565692.jpg

The second strut was exactly like the main strut. When we put it on, there was too much pressure (90kgs to be exact). You needed to be a body builder to close the door and the door would not sit right because of the pressure. The easiest thing to do was trial and error. I bought 2 new gas shocks of the same legnth and we experimented with different pressures. The correct pressure was 20kgs or if you work in the old scale 44 pounds. This was perfect. The door lifts up easily, easy to close... actually very impressed with the closure of the door. To pull the door down is very very easy and light. Once you pull it all the way down, it will swing in itself to close the door. No major adjustments either. Must admit, it works great. Now for the bad news.....

The door trims need to be cut to have enough clearance to open the door. How much you might ask .... well this is how much I cut off.

post-33008-1175566560.jpg

Not excessive... just need to do a fibreglass mould and put in a speaker.... too easy. :ph34r:

Ohh, almost forgot ... the fender... Did I roll it. Nope. I bloody cut it. he he he. :( Who needs to pay $100 for rolling. Nothing better than a grinder, and a panel beating hammer at no cost.

post-33008-1175566540.jpg

What it looks like .....

post-33008-1175566903.jpg post-33008-1175568260.jpg

For the wiring loom.... What I have done, but as yet to finish... I went to a wreckers and bought the plugs and wirining loom for the doors. I will be making an extension cable. Nice an easy rather than extending the cables. It will be a hell of a lot cheaper just extending the wires, but cause of my operation, I reallly can't get down to the panel beaters to work on it. So I will make the extension cable from home and then just plug it in.

So that's the deal guys. Sorry for taking so long. The choice I suppose is up to you. The panel beater who helped me with this, said he would do it for people for $1500. For me.. that's too expensive. I'm not a real handyman, and wanted assistance to make sure I don't F#$K up. But if you have a mig welder within arm's reach and patience, it's not too bad. This is definitely not for the faint hearted. If your gut feeling is it is too hard, don't even try.

I'll leave it up to you guys. If there is enough interest, I will see the numbers and let you know. Would I do it again or get some professional to do it... hmmm... I haven't seen a proper professional installed one, so I couldn't really compare. If you don't mind cutting the door trim and you are a bit of a handyman... I would suggest it. If you leave the door trim as is and get someone to do it it will cost approx $2000+. I'd rather the cash in my pocket, but that's only my choice. I have to admit, there were some times i wanted to rip my hair out because of the initial hinge being too big and the bottom strut which had too much pressure. Apart from that, it wasn't too bad.

I will keep you posted on my door trim and the extension cable. I will also post up some pic's of these. I am waiting for the car to be resprayed and then work on it. So may be a little while, but hopefully this month.

So that's were i'm at. Fire away any questions you may have.

post-33008-1175565107.jpg

Edited by Filecon
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

skybarge Community Regular

skybarge

Posted
Posted

damn, that is one huge job!!! but it looks so mint :laugh: can't wait to see that painted up :laugh:

I had an R32, it didn't require any cutting or welding at all, well apart from the inner guard,

A bit of a shame you had to cut the door panel to fit ;) but oh well, you gotta make some sacrifices i guess :wave:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Heavy-D...bayphotohosting

I had a kit like this, I'll try get some pics up soon of my job, but I ended up selling the car and kit, because I ran out of money for my GTS-4 project

  • 1 month later...
Flash89 Mentor

Flash89

Posted
Posted

i got a bolt on kit for a R32 still havnt got them in tho. just wondering does anything happen with the wiring cause the work shop that is painting my car said that the wiring might need extending. if someones know what goes on with a R32 what work is in volved to fit these?? thanks

skybarge Community Regular

skybarge

Posted
Posted
i got a bolt on kit for a R32 still havnt got them in tho. just wondering does anything happen with the wiring cause the work shop that is painting my car said that the wiring might need extending. if someones know what goes on with a R32 what work is in volved to fit these?? thanks

your wiring shouldn't need to be extended, mine didn't need to and it was an R32 GTS-t coupe

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...