Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have a bit of a weird question. i'm in adelaide and trying to find some miniature bearings that are 1x3x1mm, that is: 1mm centre diametre, 3mm outer and 1mm thick. they are pretty much the smallest bearings around. i need 2 for a small project and can only seem to get them from the U.S. any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance

craigpost-26381-1167269375.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148962-need-some-miniature-bearings/
Share on other sites

from what i can gather, they are used in dentistry and watch making as well as model helicopters. i want them for a model helicopter i'm trying to repair. they are available in the U.S. but the postage they want for them is more than the bearings. looks like it may be too hard. i might have to try an alternative.

i've tried model shops across australia, bearing wholsalers etc. but to no avail. i'm not normally into these things but i'm hooked on this... http://www.modelflight.com.au/rc_model_hel..._helicopter.htm

it's more of a hop up for the helicopter. will have a 1mm carbon fibre rod running through it.

cheers crack. found those guys but:

1. They're $15 each bearing and

2. they're closed for christmas.

i have now ordered some from america at $11 U.S. incl. postage for 2 bearings which is about $14. sent by air mail. >_<

thanks everyone for your help.

craig

That's not too bad of a price really...

I had to pay $25 for a bearing once (Small one too!) because the company that used them in there RC cars, decided they had to be said size, and that no one made them, so they were specific to that car!

for minature bearing especially in model rc cars you cant go past acer bearings. Use them myself in my xray T2 on road racer.

http://www.acerracing.com/bearings.html

they have heaps of different bearings there, i understand you have them by the sounds of it but if there are any probs or need some in future i would recommend them and there very good at replying to e-mails AFTER you purchase them aswell which is great afterservice, ver much a rarity these days!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
    • Is it oil smoke or fuel smoke? They smell different.
×
×
  • Create New...