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I've done a few track days in this car now and I'm still finding the Attessa is really slow in engaging. Around corners it won't really engage and whilest going straight it seems to take a while. If I go over a speed hump the torque gauge goes up and just sits there if I'm doing a constant speed until I change my driving?

Do all r32 gtr's when you launch take about 1/2 second to engage?

Is there a pressure that the pump should apply that I could check with a pressure gauge on the bleed nipple? It has been bled properly. Does the torque gauge read pressure in the line or is it what the Attessa computer thinks its sending?

This car has never had the 4wd working right. I put abs in the car as it never had it installed but it didn't really help much.

It is now really starting to give me the shits. I sold the gtst and bought the gtr so I could go faster on the track I have done everything to it now to get it sorted apart from this issue?

The transfer case should be good considering it worked in the other car and does lockup tight in this one eventually.

I don't really know how other 32's handle because I haven't been in any others and I'm trying no to buy a TSC until I get it a little better or is this how the 32 gtr's handle?

Any ideas? I need help.

r ugly poos (32) have slow attessas.

Attessa on the r33 has about 10 times as fast reaction time (from memory, I dont' have the figures with me because i'm not at home).

I can't tell how your car drives e.g. whether it's actually half a second or if it just feels long.

Best you can is bleed the attessa system

R32 attessa is slow... nearly 1/2 a second sounds about right.

R33/34 use a different system (which is quicker), and a different computer (which is quicker).

They also have a (small) preload, which gives a much better feel to the car under most driving conditions

There are controllers that will adjust the front torque up for cornering (via forum name Duncan, I think), but I don't know of any that will give a permanent preload for an R32 (and if they did, I don't know if the clutch packs would suffer excssive wear or anything). I was going to try and wire up a primitive resistor based one (it appears to be possible), but I just havn't had the time.

MANWHORE - ugly? pot calls kettle "black"

(no accounting for taste)

:D

--ebola

yeah, that doesn't sound right to me. on launch in my 32 GTR all 4 wheels spin together. I think by the time the driveline has taken up the slack, and the wheels start to break traction the fwd is engaged.

same thing happens to my gtr, even 2nd chirps before the fwd do anything, when i smash it in.

the r32 box is differant to the r33/34 boxs in the way that the 33/34's a preloaded via a spring (or something alomg those lines) which helps it kick in quicker.

plus the electronics are faster too, the r32 attessa computer reads the abs sensors a hell of a lot slower than the the r33 etc.

ive always thought about a r33 4wd conversion, but money is an issue.

steve

PhatR32 it sounds like you have a transfer case issue.

Mine had excesive wheel spin when I bought it. It had fried clutches in the transfer.

Mines just like Beer Barons, I can launch it from a stand still and there is bugger all wheel spin if anything. Second gear brings a wallop of tourque steer as all four wheels break traction together.

The attessa still anticipates wheel spin via throttle position even if its stationary so dispite being slower id still expect it to be fairly quick off the line.

As for cornering get used to the way the car behaves and then make changes accordingly with a controller etc. I treat mine like a RWD vehcile when on the circuit. If it steps out of line the attessa gives me some alowance before steping in and giving a hand.

I don't plan to fit a controller I like the way it drives once you get passed the understeer. Each to his own though.

sounds like a transfer issue. I had the same thing with my GTS4, where it was laggy in engaging AWD (i'd get a RWD launch then about a second into it the front would kick in violently)... did a full AWD check from bleeding and refilling the ATTESA system, then pulled apart the transfer and swapped in replacement gears from a GTR... launches really well now, with very little RWD wheelspin, and a smoother transition.

R32's have an 8bit ATTESA CPU wheras R33's have a 16bit, and later models gettin a 32bit one (or something along those lines).

Most cheapie torque split controllers do SFA... its much more fun when you figure out how to drive the car with ATTESA.

This controller is not cheap and it does not do SFA. It is a computer unto itself, it intercepts the signal form the G sensor and decided what needs to happen based on your input - it has 5 seperate maps for 5 different styles of driving and each can be adjusted to be more or less sensitive to Gforce, additionally a switch can be installed to allow you to quick-switch between two seperate setups. Personally, my switch switch's between aggressive AWD and bog stock for day to day use.

It also has a full datalogging facility.

same thing happens to my gtr, even 2nd chirps before the fwd do anything, when i smash it in.

the r32 box is differant to the r33/34 boxs in the way that the 33/34's a preloaded via a spring (or something alomg those lines) which helps it kick in quicker.

plus the electronics are faster too, the r32 attessa computer reads the abs sensors a hell of a lot slower than the the r33 etc.

ive always thought about a r33 4wd conversion, but money is an issue.

steve

a lot of that is not quite right. firstly, that's not how your awd system should be operating, so some maintenance there may help. secondly the box is not different, and the gearbox has nothing to do with awd, it's the transfer case which is a completely seperate thing (though conected to the rear of the gearbox).

yes the R33 and R34 transfer cases have pre-load on the clutch plates. I have looked at a couple and can't see any springs, I think it's more to do with the number of plates, and hydraulic pressure giving that preload. yes the computers are different, and I assume their mapping is different too. there is a lot more too it than just the abs sensors though. steering angle, g-forces, throttle position and yes individual wheel speed do all play a part in it's calculations.

just wanted to clear that info up :)

yepi also get a nice wack of rear wheel spin when lauched..id say transfer case,same as me although i hope not...

just take it out get in checked..i think i read in hpi that its not cheap but worth it rather thatn buying another 2nd handy

thanks for that, i was meant to say transfer and not box!

as for the preload, ive read a few places that mension springs, as well as hearing about people (33/34 owners) having to remove their front drive shafts while get a rwd dyno done to avoid burning out the clutch packs due to the pre load.

that led me to beleive that springs where involved, because if you pulled the fuse on the atessa pump there wouldnt be any pressure on the plate from the fluid.

maybe there are springs one the clutch plates them selves? again i have seen the 33/34 transfers so i really shouldnt comment.

i may have to look into why my gtr kicks in late, it only happens for a split second, with wet lanuches she grips like shit to fur.

steve

a lot of that is not quite right. firstly, that's not how your awd system should be operating, so some maintenance there may help. secondly the box is not different, and the gearbox has nothing to do with awd, it's the transfer case which is a completely seperate thing (though conected to the rear of the gearbox).

yes the R33 and R34 transfer cases have pre-load on the clutch plates. I have looked at a couple and can't see any springs, I think it's more to do with the number of plates, and hydraulic pressure giving that preload. yes the computers are different, and I assume their mapping is different too. there is a lot more too it than just the abs sensors though. steering angle, g-forces, throttle position and yes individual wheel speed do all play a part in it's calculations.

just wanted to clear that info up :thumbsup:

thanks for that, i was meant to say transfer and not box!

as for the preload, ive read a few places that mension springs, as well as hearing about people (33/34 owners) having to remove their front drive shafts while get a rwd dyno done to avoid burning out the clutch packs due to the pre load.

that led me to beleive that springs where involved, because if you pulled the fuse on the atessa pump there wouldnt be any pressure on the plate from the fluid.

maybe there are springs one the clutch plates them selves? again i have seen the 33/34 transfers so i really shouldnt comment.

i may have to look into why my gtr kicks in late, it only happens for a split second, with wet lanuches she grips like shit to fur.

steve

come to think of it mine grips like shit to blanket on dirt or in the wet 2...maybe the transfer case is ok.or maybe because there isnt as much grip the plates just dont slip as they dont need to bite as hard...

hmmmmm, check out the pics in the shopmanuals, the one in jap is the r34 one and the english one is for th r32. from one the pics i can see both have a return spring. maybe the r34 one is stronger/larger?

or maybe theres now differance between them at all?

steve

post-11604-1167829929.jpg

post-11604-1167829948.jpg

Edited by PHATR32

hmmm, i wonder?

can anyone with a r33/34 gtr pull the attessa fuse, and "drop a banger" on some wet grass and see what happens? or jack up all four and accelerate a litte, then get someone to hold the front wheels to see there is some force?

steve

same thing happens to my gtr, even 2nd chirps before the fwd do anything, when i smash it in.

the r32 box is differant to the r33/34 boxs in the way that the 33/34's a preloaded via a spring (or something alomg those lines) which helps it kick in quicker.

plus the electronics are faster too, the r32 attessa computer reads the abs sensors a hell of a lot slower than the the r33 etc.

ive always thought about a r33 4wd conversion, but money is an issue.

steve

Me too. On takeoff there is the tiniest bit of spin from the rears and then the front hooks in. Also when i bang it into second i always get chirps as well. But my transfer has 4,000km on it and was fully rebuilt...spent 6k!

I thought that was the way its sposed to be? ...and yes has been bled blah blah...

Thanks for the responses.

How far does the oil drop in the tank in the boot in some of your cars when the ignition is turned on for the first time in the day? From memory mine drops about 10mm.

The amount it drops could be an indication of any air in the system or that I have the wrong type of oil and it is being compressed to much and maybe I need a less compressable oil for better response?

well from my experiance the r32 atessa isnt as quick or should i say the car is heaps taily then it cuts in.

i followd you for a few laps a wakefield. it seemed it worked fine. lots of steering input but. was good to watch. your car seemed evan tailier than mine lol.

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