Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i am just wondering do you have the same problem as mine. My idling was a bit unsual when I started the engine this morning. it goes up and down up and down and stalled for three times, and I have finally started the engine at the fourth time. I was told by a mechanic that most stageas have this problem, but not on skylines. I just want to make sure if this is true or not, as it does not seem alright to me, and it makes some funny sound at the same time that I started the engine. I have put $10 worth of 95 petrol from BP, is that the problem? Mine is S1 97 stagea.

one more thing, what is your average km you can run by a full tank of Shell V-Power?

my one does 330km by $65, is that normal or worse than yours?

Thanks for your time, your answers and and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason

Mine does the same, but only when cold, idles between 1200 and 500 rpm, goes up and down, but never stalls, and usually after about 30secs it sorts itself out and everything is fine, I just thought it was a bad tune on the "cold" setting on the power-fc?

Also for avg fuel economy do a search for the "How much Petrol does your stagea use" thread. It really all depends on how much throttle you use, I can squeeze ~600kms out of a tank if I am careful, then again with a heavy use of the throttle i have gone as low as 250-300kms out of a tank, all depends on how I drive.

I highly doubt that just using 95 ron fuel would make a difference with idling, maybe make it ping a lot more underload, but not idling.......?

I don't use anything but 98.. and my idling is up and down but nothing to worry about..

On a big stretch i got 550 out of her with a bit more to go, so prolly just under 600... around town I'm averaging 350-400. She needs a tune.

Mine surged like you are describing when I first test drove it due to a partially flat battery - as soon as I got a decent drive out of it the problem disappeared like magic and it has been fine since...

Bad engine earth maybe?

one of my caqr did that years ago. I think from memory is the vaccum pump that holds the rpm and the constant rpm set. Just check with your mech im sure is only a minor thingy. dont worry too much about it

I'm almost certain the idling problem, is caused by the idle control valve, at the back of the plenum. Mine had the same problem when i first bought the car. I pulled it off and cleaned the carbon out of it, and that seemed to fix the problem.

There is a thread on here from way back, which explains how to do this, don't ask me where though.

Do a search on the following.

1. DIY AAC cleaning

2. DIY coilpacks

3. changing Oxygen sensor

It should be one of these causing the erratic idle

That or if ur using an atmo venting BOV ..if not then check for vacumm leaks too.

If ur using an atmo BOV...then the unstable idle is normal...u might want to use a safc to correct this ..or a cheaper option is using the HKS EIDS (i've got one in the for sale forums -- free ad :) )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
    • Yeah, my offer was more to show exactly how rough and ready the rig can be and still be useful. Youtube vids will definitely show cleaner setups. Same concept though.
    • I would guess the seal has gone down at the speedo drive and gearbox oil has crept up the drive cable sheath and fouled the speedo head.
    • Any updates on this? Although not a stroker, nor built especially loose, my car has the exact same symptoms. Although I feel they were not there to begin with. Since rebuild with forged parts I have done about 40k kms and it feels like during the last 15k or so, the oil consumption has gotten progressively worse.  Compression test showed - what I thought at least - similar 10-10.5bars in each hole without oil. I have not yet done blowby test though, due to limited garage access. #2 plug is the looks the most foul and that was the one with 10bars. Nothing in the breather tank. I only recently disabled PCV and left only the hoses running from the valve cover via smallish tank to turbo intake pipe there and did some mildish 2nd gear pulls so the car was definitely on boost (1.4bar or so). Removed a hose from the tank and it was basically dry - meaning, the wipe I used had basically no oil on it. Last time I checked, the turbo and IC piping seemed dry as well (will have to see about that again after those pulls). For the past year and a half though, the car has been driven like a granny would for 99.99% of the time, since it mainly serves the purpose of carrying the family around nowadays. A lot of slow, stop and go city driving and most of the trips it barely sees any boost, but gets up to temp properly every time. Although there can be weeks it is not started at all. The car does not smoke, or at least not that I can see. (CAT is in place though). There is slight visible sweating at the Ex cam cover seal and I recently tightened the oil cooler lines as there was some mist on them too. It runs and idles extremely nicely and feels all around healthy. Like TurboTapin, I too am suspicious of my turbo. I have had IC pipes pop out from 1.6-2bars of boost a half a dozen times during the years. The turbo is a HX35/40 hybrid. So, a very similar mystery. Around 1500kms and a litre of oil surely cannot disappear to thin air. Apologies for the wall of text, not sure if any of the above is useful for best guesses/things to check next.  
×
×
  • Create New...