Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Recently my r33 got broken into, by using a cro bar. They put the cro bar in between the window and door, and bent the hell out of the door. I got the door fixed, and my windows re-aligned at O'briens Windows for automotive, but they cannot get the allignment 100% how it used to be. The window doesnt seal the rubber fully and when you wash the car a bit of water would leak into the car. I also had to replace the rubber seal around the window because they slashed it. And also just before the window is fully closed, the windows tilts slightly sideways.

O'Briens windows told me most likely the window mechanism is bent or wrecked somewhere.

Has this happened to anyone with a 2 door R33, or does anyone know what part of the window mechnism i have to change???

thanks dudes!

Edited by mr_r33gtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149180-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Geez, that's pretty rude of whoever did that. I'm not sure what parts you need to change but would it be better to try and source a complete door from a wrecker? If you can't replace the entire door then perhaps you'll be able to pull out all the guts of a door to use in yours. Is this covered under insurance or are you having to pay for it out of your own pocket?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149180-help-needed/#findComment-2799473
Share on other sites

Only got third party insurance, so far i've got da door fixed, so it looks normal now, and a new window rubber seal, costed a grand, but now i've got to change the whole guts of the window, cause its probably bent somewhere inside.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149180-help-needed/#findComment-2808039
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...