Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Take it to someone near uni like SST and ask them to run it up on the dyno to see if the output is normal for a stockie. If not I'm sure it may only be something minor that they can fix.

The rest of us will only be guessing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14927-r34-performancee/#findComment-303601
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

+1 does seem to be low, should be making it to +3 at least. Take it to a tuning shop and let them take it for a drive, they'll tell you if anything is wrong:D

For info: the +1 reading on a 34GTT factory boost gauge is equivalent to 14.2 PSi. So if Erik's car is stock the standard boost gauge should go to approx halfway between 0 and +1. Mine went closer to the 3/4 mark BEFORE any bleed valve was fitted, which "indicated" around 10psi, however stock boost is .55 bar / 7.9 psi.

After dyno testing I have discovered my factory boost gauge is out by approx 2psi - at least I know now.

Will look for pic of gauge to illustr8

Useless fact #4: +1 is Kg/cm2 which is 0.98 of 1 bar thus 14.2 psi...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14927-r34-performancee/#findComment-304301
Share on other sites

Wow guys that's for the replies, I can't really reply due to Uni works Shit like hell.

nismoR34 my one has stock standard boost gauge, the max i can push only halfway and seems OMG it's so hell slow.

Where can i do dyno testing? I think I want to try it.

U guys all wanna take a look?

Caminperth , unfortunately I can't let anyone drive my car, if they just want to rape my turbo engine :(

adam32, my seatbelts are fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14927-r34-performancee/#findComment-304397
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha ha, ended up going it alone.  I just sent it (in a very nervous fashion).  Once I'd released the locks and it didn't automatically start spinning out of control i felt a bit more confident.   It made some loud sounds (cracking and creaking noises) when I first spun it which got the heart rate going again!  I couldn't bring myself to leave it tipped on the side.  I feel a bit more comfortable having back right side up while it sits there. I'd get angry with your last point but you're 100% correct! 😅 Even yesterday I managed to distract myself at numerous times to make a bracket to fit an LED flood light off the back of the house and fix my sons pushbike.  There were other little taks nibbling at my brain for the rest of the day too...
    • Probably one of the more nerve wracking experiences of my entire life! 😂😂 The balance (centre of gravity) is out still but in a direction that gives me comfort!   It's quite bottom heavy still meaning it takes a bit of muscle to rotate it.  The plus side of that is that it wants to to go back to upright.  Better that than wanting to go all stranded turtle on me!
    • hmmm that's not ideal. This is a pretty new engine right, will be interesting if your engine guy has any theories about causes
    • A universal ball joint removal c press kit is better money spent and will work for the Hicas ball joints.  Here's a 45$ CAD Example. ATPEAM Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press Kit with 4WD Adapters | Professional 4 in 1 Ball Joint Press Removal and Installation Tool for Cars and Trucks | Universal Ball Joint Tool with Storage Case, Ball Joint & Tie Rod Tools - Amazon Canada
    • True on both points
×
×
  • Create New...