Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did mine last week. first time using a spray can so considering that im happy. how ever i fu*cked up the plastics pretty bad trying to get the rubber coating off so had to use a few (read "many") coats of spray putty before the primer. actually i used primer first but realised it wasnt filling the scratches so i stripped it back to plastic (i think). anyway i mucked around too much and wasnt too careful. hence theres a few imperfections. it'll last till i can get it professionally done though

post-30915-1170334392.jpgpost-30915-1170334114.jpgpost-30915-1170334536.jpg

oh btw, septone paint thinner works beautifully on the rubber...just pour or wipe liberally and watch the crap wrinkle up right before your eyes. naturally i worked this out AFTER i used sandpaper... :P;)

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looks fine mate...if your happy thats all that counts, did mine yesterday looks exactely the same minor paint imperfections.... but hey, i did it in the Kitchen........LOL....not kidding, its to cold outside in the garage over here

Hey i am the same,

Just finished mine yesterday in a metallic electric blue looks the part hey and got the thumbs up from my father in law who is a old spray painter and panel beater so i must have done it ok hey post pics as soon as i can figure it out!!!!!!!!!

hey fellas,

mine is work in progress, found a shit load of old cans in my garage so i made use of em, one looked like paint but had a sticker with "primer" on it. done the three coats but im getin the shits with the ciggarette lighter socket thing, the black housing stuck to it for the light bulb doesnt wanna come out so i shoved a tissue in it and sprayed with it on... hope it turns out ok... im stuck on colour now???????? i got a mirror image of sam's. the silver although done excellent but i thnk is too bright for interior...

thanks for all the help guys. gr8 work...

danny. :dry:

hi

my center consol was already painted when I brought my skyline but im in tha process of doing my interior in red velvetin “like pool table cloth”.tha main problem ive com across is air bubbles because of the glue not being applied evenly, but this is fixable I went and got a seringe an will inject tha air bubble with glue so it will soon be perfect. This is my first attempt at doing an interior and I will post some better pics with a non dodgy camera soon if ne one is interested. Glad to answer any questions

Jon from Newcastle

:)

post-31723-1171323817.jpg

post-31723-1171323846.jpg

post-31723-1171323880.jpg

post-31723-1171323911.jpg

post-31723-1171323937.jpg

post-31723-1171323964.jpg

post-31723-1171324122.jpg

post-31723-1171324174.jpg

I would leave it for a while sometimes its the moisture in the glue that causes this.

if no joy, pin prick it a few times and wait a day or two..... just incase its trapped air that cannot get through.

then try your siringe trick but not too much glue otherwise you will soak the covering and leave a stain, or a bigger bubble.

Good Luck .....looks mental

Heres a couple of mine in Super Black KH3....notice the Blue perspex on the Clock and A/C so that it now matches the blue LED i Put in the clocks :)

post-33724-1171360135.jpg

post-33724-1171360153.jpg

Edited by Allkiller

I used Blue perspex and cut it to shape....works a treat.

or you can use theatre lighting gel to slide in behind the panels.

Tell you what PM me your address...and i'll send you my old ones i modded with Blue gel in em. hows that.

They pop out real easy when you get down to them. Dash off again im afraid.

  • 3 weeks later...

I thought i'd give this a go seeing as my white dash has annoyed me since the day i got it, I ended up giving up after sand papering for a fair amount of time and not seeming to get anywhere...did anyone else have a problem with the old paint not coming off very easily?? I can get through the first layer of paint but then theres a layer of...primer (i think) that is just being really stubborn to my sandpaper attacks :)

Any suggestions as to how I would get it off or is it just a long tedious task and im too impatient? :D

Heres a trip .. Get the plastic primer and spray it directly onto the painted surface.. Wait about 2 minutes until touch dry and hit it with some 400 grit or lower sand paper.. Watch it strip away before your eyes.. it will make the paint sticky and will come off in large thick amounts .. after you've removed most put it in the sun let it dry for 15 mins and strip the rest back with 800 grit and hit it again with 2000 grit and primer it up and paint..

Dont use paint stripper it will melt the plastic id imagine and it will also create a sticky paint ..

Just note I did it on my r34 .. The r34 paint has to be the shittest paint out .. Melts in hot weather and slight presure from a finger makes it run/smudge ..

So if it doesnt work I suggest using a higher grit sand paper (dont use a sander it will cause deep cuts to the plastic which you'll have to sand out) dont go higher than 400 grit as its already pretty sandy .. when your breaking through to the plastic change to 600+ paper..

Cheers mate

Damn, just had a quick go then and it seems to be a no go, unlucky, this particular paint doesnt seem to be as shit as the r34 paint :rofl:

I tried 400 grit, no go, i even went a bit higher...still barely penetrated the outer layer!

I'm wondering if i should just sand it back as much as i can then paint over the top its already gonna be a semi rough job because the other part to my painting is to try and fix a crack that is in my dash thats about 5ml wide. I don't even know how i'm gonna go about this, i fixed up my front bar with some fibreglass, i'm just wondering if i should attempt to use the fibreglass on my dash or doesnt it bond with plastic? Obviously i don't care how rough it will look, but its better than the sticky tape i had over it before :)

If all else fails i guess i can always get a new dash from the wreckers, i'm just looking for the easiest (read: cheapest) way out of this! I'm already missing having my line off the road :D

Edited by Chaddy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...