Bee R Rev Limiter

[r33madd]

How many of you have them and are they any good

any pros and cons

[N I B]

Buy an ECU that lets you select the type of limiter you want.

[BAMR33]

Pro's: Keeps larger turbo motors on boost during gear change, allows you to flat shift, flames and noise from the exhaust.

Con's: fouls plugs, voids insurance (if you have any), creates excess heat in turbo system and can cause major turbo failure, illegal, flames and noise from the exhaust.

I've got one on order from homer_rulz on ns.com

[shnaped_second]

Ive got one fitted on my 34, very nice no dramas so far

[r33madd]

Pro's: Keeps larger turbo motors on boost during gear change, allows you to flat shift, flames and noise from the exhaust.

Con's: fouls plugs, voids insurance (if you have any), creates excess heat in turbo system and can cause major turbo failure, illegal, flames and noise from the exhaust.

I've got one on order from homer_rulz on ns.com

Thanks for that and yes i have full insurance on my car and in NZ the rev limiter does not void it and its not illegal.

and when you say can damage turbo surely thats with excess hitting the limiter and not just daily driving

Edited January 1, 2007 by r33madd

[tiesto]

on my 32

http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=23r4ftd

[paulr33]

i think you are confused, there are a few concepts to the "limiter" device and how they work

type 1

yank the throttle cable and rpm will fly to whatever you set the limiter to, so lets say 4100rpm and wont go beyond. mash the pedal / pull the cable and it wont go past 4100rpm so you have consistent rpm for launch each time

type 2

same as type #1 but when it hits the set RPM it does spark cut so you get bang bang style antilag launch. when the spark it cut, it induces misfire which spool the turbo despite no engine load so you make boost whilst the car isnt moving. so when you take off you take off at 4100rpm with 1bar boost wound up in the manifold (lets say) and the compress its on full song when you launch.

type 3

type 3 is a hybrid and lets you have 1 & 2 but also gives you spark cut when you push the clutch pedal in so you can flatshift with antilag style changes. come time to change gears, pedal in, spark cut activates, boost keeps buidling, clutch out and keep going

-------------------

type 1 is just for consistent launches

type 2 will fry the exhaust wheel / cat and any parts along the way. it will shoot flames, make lots of bang bang noises, pop its ass off and generally be rally car style antilag

type 3 same as type #2

for type 2 you would want to have

- steel wheel exhaust wheel on the turbocharger

- no cat

- hiflow exhaust and big dump/front pipes

- a good safe tune and exhaust temp guage to watch the temps

type 1 - not sure, i think the bee *R does this for you

type 2 - gizmo launch interface @ www.apexi.com (under usa, electronics)

type 3 - gizmo launch interface @ www.apexi.com (under usa, electronics)

the first ill be buying when i have my evo is the gizmo box, the guys in the US/japland use these and can bring about 1.3 bar at launch

pros

will make kick ass launches

bring on boost without engine load

cons

noisey

need some precautions

not for street use

will annoy anyone nearby

need good traction to use the launch rpm / power

[jazza08]

Can't find that device under electronics??

Sounds fkn awsome Paul!

[Beer Baron]

i think you are confused, there are a few concepts to the "limiter" device and how they work

type 1

yank the throttle cable and rpm will fly to whatever you set the limiter to, so lets say 4100rpm and wont go beyond. mash the pedal / pull the cable and it wont go past 4100rpm so you have consistent rpm for launch each time

type 2

same as type #1 but when it hits the set RPM it does spark cut so you get bang bang style antilag launch. when the spark it cut, it induces misfire which spool the turbo despite no engine load so you make boost whilst the car isnt moving. so when you take off you take off at 4100rpm with 1bar boost wound up in the manifold (lets say) and the compress its on full song when you launch.

type 3

type 3 is a hybrid and lets you have 1 & 2 but also gives you spark cut when you push the clutch pedal in so you can flatshift with antilag style changes. come time to change gears, pedal in, spark cut activates, boost keeps buidling, clutch out and keep going

-------------------

type 1 is just for consistent launches

type 2 will fry the exhaust wheel / cat and any parts along the way. it will shoot flames, make lots of bang bang noises, pop its ass off and generally be rally car style antilag

type 3 same as type #2

for type 2 you would want to have

- steel wheel exhaust wheel on the turbocharger

- no cat

- hiflow exhaust and big dump/front pipes

- a good safe tune and exhaust temp guage to watch the temps

type 1 - not sure, i think the bee *R does this for you

type 2 - gizmo launch interface @ www.apexi.com (under usa, electronics)

type 3 - gizmo launch interface @ www.apexi.com (under usa, electronics)

the first ill be buying when i have my evo is the gizmo box, the guys in the US/japland use these and can bring about 1.3 bar at launch

pros

will make kick ass launches

bring on boost without engine load

cons

noisey

need some precautions

not for street use

will annoy anyone nearby

need good traction to use the launch rpm / power

you are not far off, but the descriptions need a little work. basically there are 2 main types of rev limit employed in efi cars. 1. fuel cut (this is the most comon and is what your factory ecu or power FC uses). 2. ignition cut (this is what the Bee-R limiter uses, and PFC pro uses).

That is the only diference. The Bee-R device also incorporate a stationary rev limit. so when the car is not moving it will limit revs at a different point than once moving. so you can set a stationary rev limit of say 4500rpm for launch. so all you have to do is hold your foot flat on the floor and it will keep the revs at 4500 (and the resultant missfires will help build some boost too), once you have release the handbrake and started moving it will enforce your regular rev limit of say 8000rpm.

It will not allow flat shifting as it does not cut ignition on gear changes.

What you describe as type 3 is just an ignition cut style limiter and will cut ignition when the clutch pedal is depressed and cease cutting one the clutch pedal is released. this will cut power to the engine momentarily to allow you to select the next gear without lifting your foot off the throttle. I dont see it of that much benefit to be honest as you are still shifting using the clutch, and if using a synchro box you are limited in how fast you can shift by the synchros more than anything. plus when shifting at high rpm, there shouldn't be much delay in response when you get back on the gas. it would probably give a small improvement though. and the less responsive your engine/turbo package, the more benefit you would get. I'm not familiar with the gizzmo unit, but if it does what you say then this is how it would work.

I'm not sure if you will find any info on the gizzmo unit at www.apexi.com. Gizzmo is a NZ company. I think they have their own website somewhere.

[paulr33]

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_gizzmo.asp

Launch Interface

The FC Pro is actually 0km/h step limiter and spark cut

[Beer Baron]

yes, which is a fancy way of saying it's a stationary rev limit (executed by way of ignition cut).

oh, i must be blind too. there is a whole section on gizzmo on apexi-usa. lol

[jazza08]

hahahaha i missed that too! awsome

[midnight]

its not stationary its secondary.

reason I say that is it doesnt have to be wired to the handbreak.

mine is wired to the clutch so I can flatchange gears.

[BAMR33]

its not stationary its secondary.

reason I say that is it doesnt have to be wired to the handbreak.

mine is wired to the clutch so I can flatchange gears.

Did not realise this, so does that mean that bee-r rev limter can also be used for flat shifting if wired to the clutch?

[rb26s13]

on my 32

http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=23r4ftd

sounds like your parked in iraq

[Eug]

www.shopx.com.au has a bit more info on them

[frankxinyu]

has always wonder this, which styled rev limiter is softer than the other?

i was under the impression that ignition cut puts less stress on the oil pump as well as turbine wheels.

[N I B]

My sons Datto 1600 uses a Wolf with ign rev limit and a second limit for launch and flat shift and even tho it has a GT30R turbo it makes over 20PSI standing still sounding like a war zone.Been in the car a few times with Commodore drives giving him a hurry up but when he uses the launch control they gave up the idea when they hear it.

[midnight]

has always wonder this, which styled rev limiter is softer than the other?

i was under the impression that ignition cut puts less stress on the oil pump as well as turbine wheels.

that is true, the unburnt fuel igniting cant be doing good for zorst on the turbo.

theres arguments for and against, the main one is that a fuel cut has potential to cause a lean condition, and others argue that no fuel = no combustion, so its not possible.

Edited January 2, 2007 by midnight

[Guilt-Toy]

Hahhahahahaha!! YES!!! thats the only reason why i want one. I just want to scare the commodores off so they settle down and leave me alone instead of giving it a hit on the street.

I wonder what boost my rb30det with gt35r will make with it standing still?

Oh and if you have the crank collar modification for the oil pump then the pump shouldnt have any issues should it ? (running stock rb25det pump)

My sons Datto 1600 uses a Wolf with ign rev limit and a second limit for launch and flat shift and even tho it has a GT30R turbo it makes over 20PSI standing still sounding like a war zone.Been in the car a few times with Commodore drives giving him a hurry up but when he uses the launch control they gave up the idea when they hear it.

Edited January 2, 2007 by Guilt-Toy