Jump to content
SAU Community

Gts-t Conversion To Gtr

Chriss
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chriss Rookie

Chriss

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Have been looking at a r32 GTR, but the paint n panel work have slightly put me off...

So been shopping around and found a R32 GTS-T converted to a GTR N1.

Just wondering if any one could give me some advise on what i should check as i know this would had been a severe mod....

Including 4wd, RB26, front and rear guards. Looks really nice..

Also would this be registered as a GTR or GTS-T ?? as its changed a fair bit...

If possible can i get some further info on if this is a wise mod or just strange....

Thanks for the input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149371-gts-t-conversion-to-gtr/
Share on other sites
Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted

It'd be registered as a modified GTS-t and it'd have to have an engineer's certificate to be legal. Interesting as to why someone went to all the trouble of doing all that, after all is said and done I bet it would have ended up being more expensive than buying an original GT-R.

So is it this one particular GT-R with bad paint and panel work that's put you off?

Because they're about 11 billion others out there :P

chinkeboi Rising Star

chinkeboi

Posted
Posted

agree'd.. go the genuine GTR.. take ur time and search for one..

as the modified GTST will be very expensive to maintain etc as most the stuff will be custom and unavailable in the aftermarket

why have a copy GTR when u can just go and buy a real GTR

Chriss Rookie

Chriss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
agree'd.. go the genuine GTR.. take ur time and search for one..

as the modified GTST will be very expensive to maintain etc as most the stuff will be custom and unavailable in the aftermarket

why have a copy GTR when u can just go and buy a real GTR

Hey cheers for the feedback.

Genuine GTR; Yeh very tru there are alot of them out there, working with a limit of about 20 for purchase price see a fair few around but mostly above the 25k mark for something that has a little work done to it and reasonable body...

Fake GTR; As for parts and stuff i would had imagined it would be same kind of price running gtr as same running gear ? not sure really seeking info :)

read a few reviews on the conversion and some say the gts chassis is lighter then gtr ???

But yeh the cost of it would had outta control glad i didnt pay for it :laugh:

Cheers again for the replies, see if u can help me a little further

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...