Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Very hard to find these rims as they are out of production.

- 17x8 +35

- 17x9 +38

- 5 hole

- 114.3 PCD.

Price: $900

No gutter rash but a few small scratches and markings. One rim has a small kink on outer lip but this doesn't affect the tyre balance in any way.

My new rims arrive here from Japan in under 2 weeks. I'm happy to take a deposit for now and once I get the newbies are on the car, I'll give the advans a good clean up and then finalise the transaction with buyer.

Prefer Melbourne people. Inspections are welcome.

cheers

post-11303-1167648813.jpg

post-11303-1167648843.jpg

post-11303-1167648872.jpg

post-11303-1167648903.jpg

post-11303-1167648934.jpg

post-11303-1167648957.jpg

post-11303-1167648988.jpg

Edited by Darkboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149410-super-advan-racing-sa3r-rims/
Share on other sites

Bugger... I just saw this and I'm too late. Please let me know if sale doesn't go through for whatever reason. I have these on my 32 and want another set the same for track. I'm in Melbourne too.

BTW. What size tyres are on it? I can make out 255 for the back from the pics but what do you have on the front? Just interested because mine are the same offset and width and have undersized tyres on it. 235 - back and 215 - front.

Shit same here...........

These would match my paint scheme nicely.

On a side note: Do you think they'll clear GTR Brembos?

Hey Al

I reckon they would because I just put some R34 GTT brakes on mine (310mm rotor) and there's still a bit of room. Provided they aren't much fatter than the 34 caliper.

This is what it looks like.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...39091&st=20

Hey russ, 34 GTT calipers are the same as 33gtst. GTR calipers a bigger and fatter.

Russ if you are interested my mate is selling silver/grey set (like Paul's) for $700. I just liked the black and red ones.

Hey russ, 34 GTT calipers are the same as 33gtst. GTR calipers a bigger and fatter.

Russ if you are interested my mate is selling silver/grey set (like Paul's) for $700. I just liked the black and red ones.

34 GTT are 310mm rotor and 33 GTSt is 296mm. If they are fatter then maybe they wouldn't fit.

I'll have a think about the silver ones. Is he in melb?

34 GTT are 310mm rotor and 33 GTSt is 296mm. If they are fatter then maybe they wouldn't fit.

I'll have a think about the silver ones. Is he in melb?

Not talking about rotor; caliper is the same.

Yes in Melb.

Not talking about rotor; caliper is the same.

Yes in Melb.

Caliper is not the same because it has to allow for the bigger rotor. Pistons and internals are the same but the 34 ones stick out further.

I'll be in touch about those wheels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...