Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.

Havind just purchased my car, stock 96 R33 gts-t, i would like to make it sound nicer. In a month or two im planning on getting a full turbo back and cooler, but for now, how do i get some induction noise? can i just put a pod filter on it? i dont want to spend much to be honest, hardly anything. a specific brand? could i just rock up to autobarn and get one? Price? Any ideas.

Sorry for such a newbie thread.

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149445-how-to-get-some-induction-noise/
Share on other sites

if you put a pod filter on , your car will become more responsive as far as sounds . the stock air box is heaps restrictive . you will get heaps of sound , and your bov will sound heaps louder . car will make a wshhhhh sound .

cheers

apexi pod filter ftw - i think the one u want is the 022 model (i think) - got mine for around $150 fitted @ RE Customs. Autobarn has k&n stuff - good filters, but the reviews for the apexi were better...

you'll probably need an adapter plate to go from the four bolts of the afm to the circular pod

the apexi pod (022 model) will bolt up to the afm straight. if sillylankan choose to go for other brand, he will need them.

ok thanks guys, let me get this straight, if i go to autobarn and get the k&n filter ill need to get addional stuff, but if i get that apexi one, it just bolts straight on?

cheeeeeerrrs

ok thanks guys, let me get this straight, if i go to autobarn and get the k&n filter ill need to get addional stuff, but if i get that apexi one, it just bolts straight on?

cheeeeeerrrs

yup for K&N you will need an adaptor plate. Apexi bolt on straight onto the afm.

Mate, Ill swap you my massive Blitz pod filter (Lots and lots and lots of induction noise) with adapter plate and support bracket for your factory airbox and snorkel. If your keen PM me, I live in Sydney.

Shit u live in Melbourne... My bad :laugh:

Edited by Chris_R33GTSt
Mate, Ill swap you my massive Blitz pod filter (Lots and lots and lots of induction noise) with adapter plate and support bracket for your factory airbox and snorkel. If your keen PM me, I live in Sydney.

Shit u live in Melbourne... My bad :)

from my personal experience they are a lot louder than the apexi ones, not mentioning their poor filteration result.

to make the best sound:

dont run any filters at all...just take everything after AFM off, and the car sounds really really really really loud.

caution: it could cause long term damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...