Help Me Fix My Car! $$$

[tmc_2]

Hi guys I have been having on going problems with my r33. See thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=148411

I tried to book into a work shop but they are all closed till hte 15th of this month, i cant wait this long as this is my only car and it is becoming undrivalbe and i dont want to risk causeing any damage.

I am willing to offer money to some one who can help me fix my car.

If any one has time this weekend or sooner can you please pm, it would be greatly appreciated.

I am willing ot negotiate paymment for labour either a hourly rate for some set charge.

I know there has to be some knowledgeable guys on here.

I am in brisbane and will travlel.

thanks

Edited January 2, 2007 by tmc_2

[Revhead]

How much are you willing to do yourself? There are a few things you can try that might help your problem.

By the sounds of your other thread though the car is running hugely rich, which would explain the problems you're having, so I'd be checking things that will alter the amount of fuel being pumped in. I'm definitely not a mechanic but check these things in no particular order:

1) Clean the AFM with electrical contact cleaner

2) Change the fuel filter

3) Check the output from the throttle position sensor, you can of course do this with the ignition on and the motor off, so you don't have to rev the crap out of it. You're basically after a smooth linear voltage increase. I think the standard range is 0.65V (closed throttle) through to 4.8V (full throttle), but look it up because I'm going from memory and am probably wrong lol

4) It shouldn't make a difference but swap to another known good fuel pump

5) Swap ECUs with someone else, keeping in mind that S1 ECUs are different to S2. If you have an ignitor box (bolted to the top of the engine, right up the back near the firewall, behind the stock BOV) then you need a S1 ECU.

I haven't listed things like sticking injectors because you've said the carbon buildup is consistent across all 6 cyls.

Failing this, if you'd still like someone to have a look at it, you could try contacting Dan (send a PM to 3lit3 32 on these forums), he knows his Skylines and has helped out quite a few members of this board. I'm not sure whether he's having time off over the break but it never hurts to check

[tmc_2]

How much are you willing to do yourself? There are a few things you can try that might help your problem.

By the sounds of your other thread though the car is running hugely rich, which would explain the problems you're having, so I'd be checking things that will alter the amount of fuel being pumped in. I'm definitely not a mechanic but check these things in no particular order:

1) Clean the AFM with electrical contact cleaner

2) Change the fuel filter

3) Check the output from the throttle position sensor, you can of course do this with the ignition on and the motor off, so you don't have to rev the crap out of it. You're basically after a smooth linear voltage increase. I think the standard range is 0.65V (closed throttle) through to 4.8V (full throttle), but look it up because I'm going from memory and am probably wrong lol

4) It shouldn't make a difference but swap to another known good fuel pump

5) Swap ECUs with someone else, keeping in mind that S1 ECUs are different to S2. If you have an ignitor box (bolted to the top of the engine, right up the back near the firewall, behind the stock BOV) then you need a S1 ECU.

I haven't listed things like sticking injectors because you've said the carbon buildup is consistent across all 6 cyls.

Failing this, if you'd still like someone to have a look at it, you could try contacting Dan (send a PM to 3lit3 32 on these forums), he knows his Skylines and has helped out quite a few members of this board. I'm not sure whether he's having time off over the break but it never hurts to check

thanks for the info RevHead,

I tried cleaning both the airflow meteres, i even resoldered one of them just to be sure.

I am leaning towards what ur thinking but i am unsure how to set the TPS, will i just need a volt/amp meter?

Oh and i changed the fuel filter that was the first thing i did when the problems started.

Edited January 2, 2007 by tmc_2

[mad082]

i should just note that a s1 ecu can be used in a s2. they are the same. people seem to think that s2's have the ignitor built into the ecu, but it is in the coil packs, not the ecu.

i am currently running a s1 ecu with a s2 motor.

[tmc_2]

i should just note that a s1 ecu can be used in a s2. they are the same. people seem to think that s2's have the ignitor built into the ecu, but it is in the coil packs, not the ecu.

i am currently running a s1 ecu with a s2 motor.

I thought thas was the case but wasnt sure.

does any on ein bris have a ecu i might be able to swap out and try for a small fee?

Another thought, if i had a air leak some where would htis make the car hesitate servely under load?

I have checked all IC piping and no leaks but what about the plenum runneres etc?

[mad082]

i'd check you crank angle sensor. i was working on a mates 180sx a few weeks back, and the CAS was slightly shagged. it was as slow as a wet week. you put your foot down and it was like driving with your foot hard on the brake.

try doing this as a test. advance your timing as far as it will go then go for a spin. this may make it ping its arse off, so only drive down the road and back. if you do this and the car runs fine then i'd say it is your crank angle sensor. and if you do it and there is no sound of pinging then you should be able to leave it like that until you can get a new one.

[mad082]

i have my stock one (s2, the s1 one that i am using has been remapped), but unfortunately i am 2 hours north of brissy.

[tmc_2]

i have my stock one (s2, the s1 one that i am using has been remapped), but unfortunately i am 2 hours north of brissy.

thanks for the offer any ways mate.

Is there any one out there looking ot make a buck on the side diagnsoing my problem?

[R334door]

i have my stock one (s2, the s1 one that i am using has been remapped), but unfortunately i am 2 hours north of brissy.

is there anyway of testing afaulty crank angle sensor??

[tmc_2]

is there anyway of testing afaulty crank angle sensor??

I think u can test the cas with a volt meter some how. I simply unplugged it and tried to start the car and it would not start at all. Pluged it back in and it started fine.

I initially was thinking faulty CAS but after reading up how htey work and fail i doubt that is my problem.

When the cas goes it just dies and ur can run any more i don tbelieve it gets dodgy and has symptoms before it dies.

Worth a try tho.

any other suggestions?

[mad082]

the easy way to test it is to try someone elses. other than that i'm not sure.

when you change them over you have to make sure that the new one is lined up. they have a half moon type thing in the end of them.

[tmc_2]

the easy way to test it is to try someone elses. other than that i'm not sure.

when you change them over you have to make sure that the new one is lined up. they have a half moon type thing in the end of them.

Does any one know of the syptoms of a gying cas? or experienced any cas related problems?

[R334door]

I think u can test the cas with a volt meter some how. I simply unplugged it and tried to start the car and it would not start at all. Pluged it back in and it started fine.

I initially was thinking faulty CAS but after reading up how htey work and fail i doubt that is my problem.

When the cas goes it just dies and ur can run any more i don tbelieve it gets dodgy and has symptoms before it dies.

Worth a try tho.

any other suggestions?

a bit confusing your reply but (typing mainly).rb's run similar set up as CA18det' engines as far as cas go ( i read up a story on them in one of the import mags and sounds similar to your prob) when it come to cas,now if the cas is faulty it will scatter timing when the spline gets flogged out causing confusion for the computer. to what i believe to which it sounds like thats what is happening,can you go a wrecker and get on and try it at least? is it worse when you run more boost??

[mad082]

with my mates 180sx, when we retarded the timing we got to a point (about 1/3 of the way back from full advance) where the car would just start running like complete crap. anywhere above that and it ran ok, but below that it ran like crap. we had originally thought that the water temp sender may have been dead and making the engine think it was really really cold and retarding the timing heaps and dumping fuel in, but it seemed fine. we tested it, and swapped it with another one and nothing changed. that may be worth testing also.

[mad082]

bit confusing your reply but (typing mainly).rb's run similar set up as CA18det' engines as far as cas go

it was on a ca18det powered 180sx that we had this issue. and the spline was a bit flogged out.

[R334door]

it was on a ca18det powered 180sx that we had this issue. and the spline was a bit flogged out.

yeah thats the one,he should try that then if that doesnt work throw a match down the fuel filler and run.lol

[tmc_2]

yeah thats the one,he should try that then if that doesnt work throw a match down the fuel filler and run.lol

Lmao well before i go out and buy a box of matches hahah

Im pretty sure my cas is intact but i will re check the locator. I will also get my timming checked again to make sure its a 15 base.

The car really runs slow to the point its hard to accelerate wiht traffic, over taking faster than an excell is way too optimistic.

i dont want to spend the money buying a cas and finding out that didnt fix it. Does any one have one i can try?

If the locator is fine and nothing seems broken , then coud the sensor still be failty?

Thanks guys

[mad082]

i kept telling my mate that the problem was that it was a ca18 and no matter what we did to the motor it wasn't going to be fast.

his problem originally started only when the car was cold, and when it warmed up it would go away. then it started doing it all the time.

[mad082]

i'd go out and try advancing the timing as much as possible just to see what that does.

[R334door]

um no i dont have one really that i could lend you but you can just go buy one make sure it has a warranty then if you swap it over and the prob is still there just take it back and say its faulty.im not 100% sure if they can be electroncally tested maybe someone on here knows.but yeah good suggestion is to advance it first and see how you go.