Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just bought an auto window roll up kit and was wondering if it is easy (and possible) to combine this with the folding mirrors e.g. as windows are told to roll up, mirrors fold in (and if possible fold out again when the car is started).

I am also thinking about shaving the boot lock off my car and disconnecting the release from the drivers side (e.g. just having the boot release on the alarm as the only way to access the boot).

Has anyone moved the boot release from near the drivers seat somewhere else in the car to make it harder for potential thieves to access the boot? e.g. moving the release somewhere under a seat, or in the back of the glove box?

I am just throwing around a few ideas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149598-auto-window-rollup/
Share on other sites

I have just bought an auto window roll up kit and was wondering if it is easy (and possible) to combine this with the folding mirrors e.g. as windows are told to roll up, mirrors fold in (and if possible fold out again when the car is started).

I am also thinking about shaving the boot lock off my car and disconnecting the release from the drivers side (e.g. just having the boot release on the alarm as the only way to access the boot).

Has anyone moved the boot release from near the drivers seat somewhere else in the car to make it harder for potential thieves to access the boot? e.g. moving the release somewhere under a seat, or in the back of the glove box?

I am just throwing around a few ideas.

ok,

side mirrors can be made to do this, just need to tap into the switch with the window roll up module. unsure if you can make them fold out when car is started..maybe..gotta find something to tap into like the ignition or something?

have no idea about the boot business

Yeah you can do it. As already said you'd need another relay off the window circuit to close the mirrors switch. I had the circuit built for this for a few dollars but I sold the car before installing it.

I never bothered with an unfolding circuit because i figured i'd just do that myself but it sounds like it's doable as well.

You can move the boot release as it's just a long cable. Just remove it all together if you're worried about it.

Any chance of getting some info on the auto rollup kit? I have been trying to find one of these for my Stagea as my kids have never been in a car with 'lectic windows before and I am getting REALLY sick of having to restart the ignition (and turbo timer) every time I get out because one of them has not wound their bl00dy window up.

On the same topic, is it possible to turn the kit off? Like if you are parked up and you WANT the windows to be left partially down?

Any thoughts on removing the boot release? I would prefer a backup in case the electronic boot release stuffs up one day.

Newbie: The trunk kit that I got is a DEI module, you will have to ask someone if you can use it with your alarm.

It is essentially "plug and play" with the one I have, and the solenoid is fairly simple to install but you will have to check with someone that knows what they are talking about - if you want to buy it though do a search for DEI TRUNK RELEASE on ebay - mine didnt cost that much.

I am in two minds about the mirrors, am I becoming just too bloody lazy? hmmm!!

If it is a simple relay/circuit I might get it done, if it will cost more than about $40 its probably not worth the effort. The car is being pulled apart soon to be sound deadened and have the new stereo put in so I am trying to get as much stuff as i can out of the way at the same time.

Any thoughts on removing the boot release? I would prefer a backup in case the electronic boot release stuffs up one day.

I've got auto boot release as well and you can still open the boot manually via key or the release lever in the car?

I've got auto boot release as well and you can still open the boot manually via key or the release lever in the car?

Yes I know you can do that, but so can theives.

I am trying to make it harder for the wrong people to get into the boot, but still easy enough for me to get in there.

I have already taken the lock out of the boot, but the lever release in the car is still there.

I want a push button release on the remote and tossing up whether it is worth having the cable release re-located somewhere hidden in the car.

Yes I know you can do that, but so can theives.

The worst part about it is that no matter what if they wan't it, they'll take it.. but its a great deterrant!

You'll need an alarm with enough aux outputs to hook up your window roll up and mirror fold or you can have them together, and another aux output for the boot... its all do-able just need to know what your doin lol... if your in Melb i can refer you to some really good car audio fitters..

Good luck dude!

The worst part about it is that no matter what if they wan't it, they'll take it.. but its a great deterrant!

You'll need an alarm with enough aux outputs to hook up your window roll up and mirror fold or you can have them together, and another aux output for the boot... its all do-able just need to know what your doin lol... if your in Melb i can refer you to some really good car audio fitters..

Good luck dude!

Yeh i know that you can never make things unreachable. If they REALLY want something they can get it. But doesnt hurt to make it harder :)

I have enough outputs for the window rollup etc. I am in Sydney and Marty at FHRX suggested a guy for me to go to a while ago about a different matter, so i will tell him exactly what I want when i get things done.

Yeh i know that you can never make things unreachable. If they REALLY want something they can get it. But doesnt hurt to make it harder :)

I have enough outputs for the window rollup etc. I am in Sydney and Marty at FHRX suggested a guy for me to go to a while ago about a different matter, so i will tell him exactly what I want when i get things done.

Sometimes making it harder is not always better...the scumbags will just get pissed off and hack away at other parts of ur car making it an even costlier repair bill. Best deterent I have is in choosing where you park.

I have just bought an auto window roll up kit and was wondering if it is easy (and possible) to combine this with the folding mirrors e.g. as windows are told to roll up, mirrors fold in (and if possible fold out again when the car is started).

I am also thinking about shaving the boot lock off my car and disconnecting the release from the drivers side (e.g. just having the boot release on the alarm as the only way to access the boot).

Has anyone moved the boot release from near the drivers seat somewhere else in the car to make it harder for potential thieves to access the boot? e.g. moving the release somewhere under a seat, or in the back of the glove box?

I am just throwing around a few ideas.

ok that is two different modules. windup is one and can be triggered off the door actuator. the fold can be done off a neg trigger. will take 2 relays and a couple of caps to do it.

removing ALL access to teh boot is a BAD idea. if it stuffs up then you CANNOT get in. best idea if you are that worried about it is to MOVE the mechanical release. put it in th arm rest in the centre console there is enough cable to do that.

who in sydney is doing the alarm? if its NOT alan or leon - worry..

Any chance of getting some info on the auto rollup kit? I have been trying to find one of these for my Stagea as my kids have never been in a car with 'lectic windows before and I am getting REALLY sick of having to restart the ignition (and turbo timer) every time I get out because one of them has not wound their bl00dy window up.

On the same topic, is it possible to turn the kit off? Like if you are parked up and you WANT the windows to be left partially down?

what do you want to know about it?

on the second point yes it can be disabled - most have an inhibit input on them so its a case of putting a signal on it and they stop. the one I use does them one at a time.

that said if you wanted to ADD it to the car in standard form it can be done OFF THE STANDARD REMOTE!

if you are capable of doing the wiring I can expalin how.

what do you want to know about it?

on the second point yes it can be disabled - most have an inhibit input on them so its a case of putting a signal on it and they stop. the one I use does them one at a time.

that said if you wanted to ADD it to the car in standard form it can be done OFF THE STANDARD REMOTE!

if you are capable of doing the wiring I can expalin how.

Thanks for the advice Chris.

The main thing I want to know, is what do I ask for and where do I get one.

I am pretty capable when it comes to basic stuff like installing a stereo/amp/dvd player etc, and I am in the process of getting a Jaycar EBC kit together so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Only problem I can forsee, is that I know bugger all about my fitted alarm, other than its brand name because apart from the siren under the bonnet and the mic for glass breakage, I am buggered if I can figure out where the rest has been installed. I do know that the heater core was replaced a while back so there is a good chance the person responsible has taken the opportunity to hide it waaaay up the back of the dash near the firewall. :wave:

I know its good for the security of the car, but it makes it a bit hard for me ATM.

Also, I don't actually have the standard remote, unless you are referring to the original key with the "lock" and "unlock" buttons on it (that I have never really used)

  • 1 year later...

i have this auto window winder got it installed at desire for sound

BUT only one window winds up at a time :) i was hoping that both would go up at once but first the passengers goes up then the drivers :)

anyone has got theirs to go up both at once?

Lol, you've dragging up a pretty old thread mate.

I know the thread starter has most likely solved the issue by now, but one problem I can see with taking out the boot lock and the wire release, what if you got a flat battery? I know the chances of running down tv battery that much is very unlikely, but it is possible. And being an R33, the battery is in the boot. So that's why i'd stay clear of something like that.

Just my 2c

i have this auto window winder got it installed at desire for sound

BUT only one window winds up at a time ;) i was hoping that both would go up at once but first the passengers goes up then the drivers :D

anyone has got theirs to go up both at once?

some modules do one at a time some do all at a time. in your case -no.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...