Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

For sale is my r32 GTR twin turbo i have put a arm and a leg into this car and never got to take it to the track or even got a taste of the real boost the last thing i will be doing is putting it on dyna before sale for i have a baby on the way and already have a 3 year old, sad but true i have to say goodby to my baby,no not that one my car.have a look and see what you think i am open to offers or trade with cash.

Here are some of the after market parts i have had installed!!!!

- after market computer $$

- trust frontmount/big intercooler$$

- piping to pods by apexi$$$only set in australia/rare

- power fc\dual stage boostcontroller by HKS$$

- suspension by HKS/adjustable in many ways$$

- exhaust full 3and half inch all the way with tip$$

- 2 blow off valves by apexi$$

- apexi pods$$

- apexi handcontroller$$

- tuffest clutch i could get my hands on they told me nothing would brake this$$

- momo steering wheel$

- front swaybar$

above cost easily brake the 10k budget even 15k!!!

I made some changes to the look of the car sick of the gtr look

-installed frontbar as you can see in photos gives it a sexier look

-stock side skirts

-rearpods

-removed the wing and debadged boot/also known as the sleeper affect

makes it very easy on the eye well my eye i dont like wings.

-also installed are a set of aftermarket zenon lights so at night you have the brightest lights/set when i got them easily go for 2k

That about sums it up for upgrades other then that i have never had a problem with the car i have had the gtr for about 2 years. Still get that mad feeling in the gut everytime im neer it. i really dont want to sell but in my situation i have no choice at all i had more plans for the car but they had to come to a halt,my next plan was to install what i call a bird catcher is the gt45 t88 turbo top mounted with stainless manifold internal gated or ex, well the car has everything else why not bigger turbo sad i will never get to see that.

Anyway i have a price tag of 21000$ on her

will consider trade with cash or nearest offer

here is my number if anybody is interested

0427497111

thanks,

neal

my lil couson calls it the bat mobile.

post-23137-1167785062.jpg

post-23137-1167785123.jpg

post-23137-1167785172.jpg

post-23137-1167785208.jpg

post-23137-1167785244.jpg

Edited by neal32

its a late 89model as you should know they didnt release till 1990

only has 60000k's is getting a full tune before sale includes dyna.

the car is currently at a yard in the city so if you tell them the price ive said they will understand you know caryards. if you would like to veiw or test drive the vehicle give me a call and i will let them know what day and time couse they will have to move cars to get it on the road for a testy.

thanks,

neal

ph:0427497111

email [email protected]

Edited by neal32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...