Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help!

bigdamoc

By bigdamoc,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

bigdamoc Explorer

bigdamoc

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone, happy new year!

Well quick story, driving 2 weeks ago on a back road with a mate, gave it a bit, nothing like i hadnt done before and by the time i got home which was about 10mks from when i was driving it pretty hard on a straight stretch of road we both noticed that the car was making anoise from the engine bay, lifted the bonnet and the sound was as if a belt was metal and was going round with no lube to take the noise away(bad description i know sorry). I thought it couldve been the timing chain as the car is overdue for its 100,000km service. I went to a mechanic that i dont know of cos im new to this area (just moved in November) and he thought it could be the air conditioning pulley as the noise was coming from the bottom of the engine near all the fan belts and the pulley was slightly warped whilst going round, and warped by the way of bugger all to be honest, couldnt even tell unless you really stared at it for a while. he said it should be fine and the car drivable for a while before it would seize and then it would just burn the belt out. Well my air con shit itself about 2 months ago but it doesnt bother me not having it. I then drive to a mates place, 50km round trip and the noise is the same. Go to work the next day, its fine, then come out for smoko and go to drive off and the car died when i changed into 2nd doing maybe 20km/h whilst the windows were going down.

When i try to start the car, no ignition lights come on on the dash, the beeping sound still works with the keys in the ignition, allthough now it also sounds when the key has been turned to the 1 before start, i dont think it did that before, the horn works, the interior light works, now i cant get the windows up either. its as if the is no battery connected to the car when i try to start it. I put a multi mtere on the battery, thats fine, checked all the fuses near the drivers side kick panel, and 1 20amp was blown but cant tell which one, i have 2 going sideways as all the others go up and down, it was the 1 near the blade fuse puller thingy. i changed that and also used a different car battery and also checked the 2 fuses in the fuse box under the bonnet, they were fine, plus also another fuse that is connected btween the positive on the fuse box and goes somewhere through the engine, but cant find where, that fine. I undid the wiring loom that goes into the ecu whilst no battery just to maybe reset it on the off chance as well, but nothing. i have volatge to the fuse box under the bonnet. Ive just moved to Melton in Victoria so if anyone can either help me fix this on here, or tell me where i could go or even better just come round and gimme a hand it would be more then appreciated.

Im strapped for cash at the moment so i hope its not the bottom end, but ive blown an engine before in a car and the ignition lights still come on when i went to restart that car, but nothing on this.

1994 r33, turbosmart boost controller t-piece 11psi, and no other mods.

Please help me or any ideas would be greatly appeciated, mind you im not to mechancially minded on this car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/
Share on other sites
Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted

If you don't have any lights at all and nothing is coming up probably get it towed to an auto elec, my mate had the same problem but its a different car, it was his indicator stalk (f*kd if i know how that effects the electrical sys) that was faulty and he couldn't get accessories or ignition but give an auto elec a go dude!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2790090
Share on other sites
bigdamoc Explorer

bigdamoc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think it would be more then just the indicator stalk or some little kind off short like that. I will take it to an auto elec but i just wanted to know if anyone had an idea of what it could be. Could it be a blown engine, could it be a fuse i missed, could it be a problem with something i don't even know about??? Please i really am desperate, im driving my dads peiece of crap vn which has no power at all.

Please help anyone, any ideas would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2794085
Share on other sites
muffla Rookie

muffla

Posted
Posted

even if the alternator is buggered ur ignition lights should still come on cuz they get power from the battery. id say that if ur ignition lights dont come on but everything else does then it could be the ecu. whatever happend to ur car might have messed with the ecu or completely buggered it. u should take it to an auto elec that specializes in jap ecus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2800379
Share on other sites
bigdamoc Explorer

bigdamoc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanx for the replies, well today i stuffed around with it a little. I have found out that i only have power going to 1 side of the fuse box. I needed to short the ignition side to get my windows up. Ive givin up on it, im taking it to an auto elec next week. The belt is still on everything is where it should be. Ive done what i can, time to bite the bullet and get someone that knows what there doing on to it.

Thanx for the help anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149657-need-help/#findComment-2804236
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Looney_Head
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Looney_Head · Posted

      Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • GTSBoy
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...