Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was thinking v8 myself it would be a machine alright, and i would really love to put some sort of rb in it, i live up in Nrth Qld Townsville and none of my mates are mechanics (well they think they are mechanics in their own minds lol) yeah its just gonna be a lot of greaf for me cause ill have to get someone else to do the work and thanks for that link makes more interested to do it

cheers

darryn

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

For easier fitment i'd go a smaller engine than any RB.

An SR20DET would be nice and small with decent power using bolt ons, and you can get monster power out of a built one with a decent turbo if you're serious about upgrades.

Or a 20B triple rotor turbo, plenty of poke for a car that probably weighs 1100-1200kgs, and they can handle upgrades fairly well.

Went for a spin a 65 Cortina (weighs 1050kg) with an S14 SR20DET the other day, 12psi, tune, FMIC. Damn is is that fast! Its just so lively. It's capable of a high 13 flat with only 155rwkw, more boost = easy high 12s

Yeah but my problem is where could i find a rebuilt one??? and would the custom engine and piping and stuff like that cost me an arm and a leg u recon???

cheers

darryn

Finding a rebuilt one would be difficult, but how much power are you chasing?

If it were me, i'd buy an S14 Silva front cut, using the engine, gearbox, looms, brakes etc, possibly suspension if coilovers could be made to fit. (guestimating about 5K for a front cut, havent really looked so i dont know)

If you put cams, injectors, fuel pump, boost cont, ecu and find a decent turbo/manifold, GT-RS or something decent, i reckon you could guarantee 11 second passes, and you would have trouble keeping traction in the dry in third gear.

It would make one hell of a weapon

See thats the favourite thing about my car because i got it handed down to me with mags and paint from my brother so its mine now, VSPEC-33 do u really think it could do a 13 sec pass if i put about $15k into it including labour???? see thats the biggest one i will just be dissapointed if it doesnt go hard and i put alot of money into it. i will be blown out of my mind if i could rock up to a set of lights and people laugh at me and then just leave a trail of smoke in their face :D

See thats the favourite thing about my car because i got it handed down to me with mags and paint from my brother so its mine now, VSPEC-33 do u really think it could do a 13 sec pass if i put about $15k into it including labour???? see thats the biggest one i will just be dissapointed if it doesnt go hard and i put alot of money into it. i will be blown out of my mind if i could rock up to a set of lights and people laugh at me and then just leave a trail of smoke in their face :D

Provided you kept the car lightweight, cant add a huge stereo or anything because because weight is your enemy. I recon you could crack a 13 sec pass with a standard turbo, boost @ 15psi and a good tune.

If you have any mates that could help you put everything in the car you can save yourself some dollars. Alot of the costs will be fabrication and engineer certificate, so if you find a workshop thats wants to help to you out ,and not just take your money, you should be able to meet budget.

Years ago i thought about doing the same thing with an E30 BMW, the SR to me was one of the better cost/perfomance/weight ratio available. Plenty of aftermarket parts avail too.

thanks for that site vb, and yes it will be very hard finding a shop to help me out with this project and wanting to actually help not make a sh!t load of cash out of it, the only thing im really worried about is the budget on this machine. But as im looking around ill just have to save really hard

darryn

Yeah i know, thats the thing i really love skylines but their is sooo many of them around and i just want to be different for once and anyone has to admit it would be a kick ass sleeper that know would ever expect to get eaten up by it!!

my opinion 2jz

thought about 1uzfe? strongest production engine in the world= potential potential potential, totally alloy engine and wouldnt ruin the dynamics of the car

vq35det? now that would f**king hammer

1gzfe? (think thats the engine code) toyotas 6.0 v12 :drool: out of the century's if u could get a hold of one that is.

is a 4 cyl turbo really worth it? weight wise

i reckon look for a alloy block 6 or 8 and then u can have the best of both worlds

1gzfe - 5.0, not 6, also hideously expensive and spares are non-existent

1uz - nice but easier to get power out of a 2jz, especially with limited budget

13B - reliability issues. rotary+budget=myth

2jz should be able to do with that budget, but by far the best option, providing your gonna go auto, 6 speed, you got no chance with that budget

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...