Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have this problem when i rev my car and its not in gear the revs come back down and fall below the normal idle level. The car pretty much stalls then pics itself up again and idles normally. same thing if i take of fast then put the clutch in. anyone had this problem? Or know what is wrong?

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14981-problem/
Share on other sites

Read about this in HPI mag, problem is worse if you have a bigger turbo, should not really happen if engine is stock.

As you accelerate or rev, the butterfly in throttle body is open, once you let go of the accelerator the butterfly shuts. Due to the suction of air under acceleration, some of the air bounces off the butterfly and goes back through your a/f meter. This cools the wires in the a/f meter tricking the computer into thinking the engine requires more fuel, thus floods the motor for a split sec. HKS have a device to overcome this problem, not sure of the name.

Before doing anything, make sure the a/f meter is clean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14981-problem/#findComment-304205
Share on other sites

The ecu is programmed for a plump-back, this floods the motor for a split second, to compensate for the lack of air.

Best bet is to put the stock BOV on and test it. Could solve all your problems, and make your car more enjoyable to drive and legal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14981-problem/#findComment-304232
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you want to do the wiring, the GTT engine ecu has the same pinouts extra that the seperate TCM in the NA car has. You can literally grab the wires/pins that lead into the Seperate TCM and wire them into the corresponding pins in the GTT Engine ECU. You could then in theory Nistune it. I realised this when everyone put it in the too hard basket and I actually looked at the f**kin R34 manual. This is after I had previously had a seperate aftermarket TCM controller in my original N/A chassis car and a very built gearbox from a GTT, running a seperate Haltech engine ECU. I ran into this issue when I re-shelled the car into a GTT shell, so my aftermarket TCM was no longer plug and play, because the loom/modules were not present. I was pretty livid when realizing just how simple the original fix actually was. It sat for 3+ years at various workshops trying to find a solution. In practice none of this is a worthwhile idea for a lot of reasons, generally surrounding the shitness of the NA auto, the autos in general that come with skylines, and the NA engine and lack of gains. The gearbox is specced for the 2.5L N/A and barely at that level. If you have to pay anyone any money to do any of this, that is money spent on manualizing the car and it's not even close in terms of a comparison. Learning to drive manual is simpler than going through the pain of dealing with the N/A gearbox and he'll have fun to boot.
    • Semi-correction to my blanket statement that you can't bend rubber hoses. It seems that you can get most of a result, by doing as this guy does. I wouldn't promise that the bends will stay in the hose forever. I think if I found they wouldn't stay, I'd get a larger hose and cut some 90掳s out to go over the bends I wanted to be in the smaller hose, as a reinforcement.
    • Just a heads up. Mine has just failed. When i turn the car on it just reboots everytime then the word "Android" shows up then goes to a black screen. I've aksed the company i got it from for some help but it's passed their 90 day return so they wont help. I have to swap back to my old system this weekend 馃槶
    • Does the car have to stay auto? If so, you might be looking at a ZF swap in future. 
  • Create New...