Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay i got my 600x300 cooler installed yesterday, and since then when every i hit boost it sounds like its hitting the rev limiter. i have to take the car back to the shop but wanted to have a few ideas of wat it may be before i go there.

thank u

it was running stock boost before the cooler was installed but have noticed that the boost was higher since the install, can FMIC cause boost spiking? and i hope it isnt the plugs coz i got a set of platinums the last month.

so if it is hitting the boost limiter how do i fix it?

well not actally have heard the car, if the pug gap is to big, ie the stock 1.1mm and the coild are a bit week, the denser air causes the coil to work harder and you get a brake down of spark. This happend to me, i had to go all the way down to 0.6mm just to idle, and .55mm to run.

The problem is you can't regam platnums to easily, or arn't suppose to. go out and buy a copper set, the shop will know which ones, and buy the ones that are gapped to 0.8mm. Put these in and see how it goes. It is most propably the spar.

If it is hitting R&R, which i unliky, if you are running stock boost, then you may need an SAFC II air flow computer or a full computer to fix it. The ecu detect that there is to much air comming into the engine, and retards the ignitions and hence limits the boost.

Hope that helps

Hey dude i had the same problem aswell on cold nights, probably have a look at your coil packs cos its a common thing to have hairline cracks in em causing the missfire when the rpm is around 4.5k - 5k, theres a few topics here on how to do a quick fix on em which suprisingly helps! And the gap on the plugs i've noticed alot of people gap em down to .8..

i took it back to the exhaust shop and they found a vacum hose that had melted shut and problem seems to have gone, i still wonna take it to a dyno to check a/f ratios and get it tuned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can.   I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.
    • I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque  What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques 
    • I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
    • Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'
    • That too, but I think this is why she's put the work into the cam cover baffles. I mean, a catch can should only need to be a catch can, not an oil air separator also. Not to say that putting the effort into having it do a better job of oil-air sep is a waste of time, but doing the sep earlier is always going to make life better. And that should happen now anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...