Jump to content
SAU Community

Kws At The Wheels  

219 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

"You cant just jump in the ring with Ali caus u think ur box. Hey he knows i can box. So check it, if i lose the winner takes my car clean and clear. But if i win, i take cash, and i take the respect."

R32 GTST, usual mods, stock turbo 170RWKW @ 14 psi

Edited by R32Abuser
".....so check it, if i lose the winner takes my car clean and clear. But if i win, i take cash, and i take the respect."
Stuff the respect I'm here for the chicks!

R33 GTS-T (manual-auto) 203rwkw @ 13.5psi from Boostworx.

that would be SLO-031

my best was 177 my worst was 154 i dont know why it lost power from one run to another but i know it hasnt stayed lost just cant afford to go on a dyno every other week

i remember i was in my silo when this bloke pulled up next to me, i was like ohh ok, then BANG 100 meter

wheelspin :O

i saw his plates "slo-031" i was like :dry::O:O:O:O:O:O

My lil' 66 skyline is doing 140 at the treads, but with the new bits ( turbo, zorst and a couple of other things) I am hoping for 180kw at the treads ( I want to be australia's most powerful 6 cyl Prince Skyline GT-B) not that I am not already... hehe :dry:

Edited by 66 skyline gt

Hey ,

my GTR was tuned at 262 rwkw at a bar,

now with more boost and electronic controller prob pushing 280 +

but its a GTR so all the power transfers to the ground and the magnesium wheels being light it makes it more responsive

mike

^^^ GT42R infact

last made 378kw on street tune

apparently having a 2spd powerglide put behind it

lol my bad.. GT42r... Lunatic. :)

Yep a powerglide is going in behind it as the r33 auto built up had issues holding the power. Not surprisingly really as 373rwkw is a rather large amount of power. :)

geebus! some of yous have some serious power! i'm shitting myself in my little 80kw mx6 turbo around corners (that is with a blown head and running at 2psi hahahaa) and some of yous are hitting 300kw mark! damnnnnnnn

lol my bad.. GT42r... Lunatic. :)

Yep a powerglide is going in behind it as the r33 auto built up had issues holding the power. Not surprisingly really as 373rwkw is a rather large amount of power. :)

Back that up with having issues trying to get it into reverse when required .... :laugh:

Looked good on the Smasa Cruise. I think that's how you spell it :kiss:

153.1kw @ 11psi via Boostworx

Stock Turbo, 3 inch exhaust, crappy cooler, ..errr....fuel pump & Air Filter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...