Jump to content
SAU Community

Microtech Lt-12s + Plug And Play For R32 Gts-t + Tuning Dongle

murrayis
 Share

Recommended Posts

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is a regretful sale, of my near new Microtech ECU, plug and play adapter and laptop dongle, its only been in my car a month, but xmas is left me a bit behind so i need the money to pay some bills.

ECU is still in my car located in Brisbane, i can show you it working and running the car if needed, or i can post to anywhere at the buyers expence

All of the above was purchased for $1695 just on a month ago direct from Microtech, The ECU has a lite tune on it for the basic mods, Bigger turbo, 15psi, fuel pump, full exhaust and cam gears.

I am looking for $1400 for the three items, like i said there close to brand new so this is a good deal for anyone needed and aftermarket ecu

You can contact me on email at [email protected] or msn on [email protected]

Ask any questions you have i will happily answer them, once again this is a regretful sale and needs to go quickly.

Cameron

Edited by murrayis
murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it was making 270 rw hp on 15psi but very very lean but that was because of the stock injectors, on 11 - 12psi we left it at 225hp there abouts.

It made alot of diff up top, and really smoothed out the transition onto boost, it is making 225hp at 5200 just after it comes on full boost

dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

so it has the rb20 adapter, std map sensor? and does it have the microtec ignitor or not? the *laptop dongle* is the cable for lap top tune? if so do you have software? still undr warrenty i assume.

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
if this is an rb20 ecu...if i wanted to put it in an rb25, i'd have to re-tune it?

is wired in or just plug in?

Put it this was the base map that microtech sends with the ecu for the rb20det is for the rb25det, all the difference is in the plug and play adapter and yes of course would have to fiddle with the tune as you would with any ecu swpapping between engine types, you might find it wouldrun without any problem then again you just don't know

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...