Jump to content
SAU Community

What Is A Sway Bar For?

joese7en7
 Share

Recommended Posts

Don Juan Apprentice

Don Juan

Posted
Posted

Front or rear?

It just adds more stability to the chasis, so the car has less bodyroll.

You won't notice it much unless you are really pushing the car though. I put a rear one on just last week and the car has alot more potential in the mountain roads.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Also called an anti-roll bar. Designed to reduce body roll when cornering.

You could get the same effect by fitting heavier springs, but that would increase the overall harshness in the ride. Sway / Anit-roll bars achieve the result without increasing ride stiffness.

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

Swaybars/anti-roll bars/stabilizer bars have the sole purpose of resisting roll and do this VERY effectively.

Don Juan: I think you are thinking of strut tower braces. You definitely can notice the difference aftermarket swaybars straight away

$weetDreamZ Enthusiast

$weetDreamZ

Posted
Posted

Swaybars reduce body roll by changing the leaning movement (ie body roll) to a twisting movement that is taken up by the swaybar. So instead of the car leaning from side to side as you go through corners the swaybar twists. This results in a flatter ride when you go around corners and makes for a much more exciting drive =)

It is a balancing act to determine if it is better to have or not to have. No real right or wrong as it depends largely on your car, its setup and the way you drive. As a guide you'll feel it is effective up to a point and then if you keep going to a thicker bar it can become overkill. Not to mention the physical factors such as having appropriate mounting points and hardware so the swaybar doesn't rip out of the chassis.

  • 2 months later...
sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
Posted

What $weetDreamz said made me wonder: Which skylines (if any) have sway bars in stock form, and (more importantly to me) does a stock R33 S2 GTST have mounts for swaybars? I'm considering putting some in and want to know if it will be an addition, or merely a replacement of existing parts.

Cheers.

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted
What $weetDreamz said made me wonder: Which skylines (if any) have sway bars in stock form, and (more importantly to me) does a stock R33 S2 GTST have mounts for swaybars? I'm considering putting some in and want to know if it will be an addition, or merely a replacement of existing parts.

Cheers.

Its a replacement of the existing sway bars.

all skylines & majority of all cars come with factory sway bars.

It'll just be heavier duty sway bars you'll be installing.

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

swaybar = the best handling modification you can do on a skyline that has standard suspension.

I have an R32 gtst and it suffered terribly from understeer and turn in was sloppy at reasonable speed going thru a sweeping corner.

I fitted a whiteline adjustable swaybar to the rear and set it to medium. with zero other changes the handling has been transformed. my turn in is now fantastic and the cornerspeed is a lot higher

the whole feeling is a lot better. at first it was a bit scary because i was not used to being able to put the car into the corner at the 20% higher speed but after a few days i got used to it and love it :thumbsup:

only took 45 min to fit and was one of the best $$$ to performance mod.

skylinegtts Experienced

skylinegtts

Posted
Posted

So from ive been reading soo far.

It would be far better for me to get front and rear adjustable swaybars compared to getting some lower springs?

Ive currently just got some KYB shocks and just some urathane bushes. If the swaybars are that much better, after getting them would lower springs make a big difference in terms of ride harsness vs handling, ie would the handling out weigh the increased ride harshness

Cheers

Stephen

Xander Apprentice

Xander

Posted
Posted
So from ive been reading soo far.

It would be far better for me to get front and rear adjustable swaybars compared to getting some lower springs?

Ive currently just got some KYB shocks and just some urathane bushes. If the swaybars are that much better, after getting them would lower springs make a big difference in terms of ride harsness vs handling, ie would the handling out weigh the increased ride harshness

Cheers

Stephen

I would recommend the Adjustable Blade adjustable swaybars over lowered springs. The blade adjustable items from whiteline are great. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...