Jump to content
SAU Community

Sprayed - Break Calipers

sky017

By sky017,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

sky017 Proficient

sky017

Posted
Posted

i worked up the attitude to do my break calipers , and id have to say im pretty impressed with the way they came out .

i used :

1/2 can of engine enamel paint(red)

1/4 can of clear (takes up to 650'celcius) - highest rated i could find

so basically i cleaned my calipers with degreaser and thinners , and let dry . then sprayed 4 coats of the red , 10 min between each coat , then let dry over night . next morning i did 2 coats of clear , poped my wheels back on , left to dry while i repeated the process on the other side of the car . easy done!!

here are some pics.

caliper23.jpg

caliper.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149947-sprayed-break-calipers/
Share on other sites
sky017 Proficient

sky017

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just degreaser mainly - they were in pretty good nick , if they had built up dirt - it would probably be best to sand them back or use a wire brush

i didnt bother sanding over the top of the nissan logo after , or using a white paint , i like them in one colour . anyway im off to make a start on my rocker+cam covers

cheers

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I used 4 coats of metalcast brand red over 3 coats of septone brake caliper paint in silver which I used as a primer (I wanted to do them in gold but they were sold out).

I covered the nissan logo with blu-tak & sprayed over the top.

It has a really cool annodised look.

I did the same thing when I had my r33 & it lasts (had my r33 for almost 3 years & never had a drama)

post-29425-1168336386.jpgpost-29425-1168336572.jpg

Edited by Yo-Yo
series2r33 Collaborator

series2r33

Posted
Posted

I sprayed the calipers on my FTO bout a year ago before i sold it. One thing i thought was that since the car was like 10 years old the brake pads that may have been on it at some stage, may have contained asbestos, as some of the older pads did... i made sure to wear a dust mask when using the wire brush, a fair bit of crap does come off.

Just a heads up... Might not be dangerous but better safe than sorry hey.

Matt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • GTSBoy
      Finding E-30 & E-85 in Sydney

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
    • Duncan
      Finding E-30 & E-85 in Sydney

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sorry, I wasn't very clear.....just that the standard injectors are apparently good over 600rwhp/450rwkw which you won't get to on standard turbos anyway.....they are much better sized from factory than we are used to in RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...