Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, Im having some trouble wiring up an RB25DE (S1 R33) wiring loom into an R31. Its all wired up but it wont fire, the car turns over but just wont fire. Ive checked the timing so its getting spark, theres definitely fuel feeding to the injectors it just wont fire at all, no splutters no nothing, it just lifelessly winds over.

one thing i did notice is when i put the key on ignition, my safc fires up all happy and the ecu has a red light - but when i turn the key and it starts turning over, the light in the ecu goes out and it clicks... is this normal? the safc (2) stays on.

Any idea's of what to check? im stumped...

cheers

EDIT:

The first 3 plugs have no home, what are they for???

the blue relays, im just curious what they are for while im at it

and the white plug up behind the ecu

cheers, im just trying to get an idea of what everything is to help my troubleshooting

ta

post-18637-1168243567.jpg

post-18637-1168243578.jpg

post-18637-1168243597.jpg

post-18637-1168243606.jpg

Edited by SKiT_R31

I had a similar issue in my 180sx...put another sr20det into it and when we tried to start it, it would turn over, and everything but just wouldn't start...sometimes it sounded like it was firing but still wouldn't run, turned out to be that I needed to run the same AFM as the ECU (I had swapped the ecu but not the afm).

take out a spark plug with the coil pack still on it. have it close to an earth point so it can spark, then take your CAS off and get someone spin it while you hold the spark/coil pack close to an earth point.

firstly, check if your CAS is plugged in properly.

take out a spark plug with the coil pack still on it. have it close to an earth point so it can spark, then take your CAS off and get someone spin it while you hold the spark/coil pack close to an earth point.

firstly, check if your CAS is plugged in properly.

its getting spark and has perfect fuel pressure, i think for some reason the injectors wont fire... any idea's?

the afm and everything is set up right even if it wasnt it would atleast fire and die in the arse or something - doesnt work without it plugged in also.

What part of the wiring would stop the injectors from firing?

those two plugs are for your injectors, the one on the top is the one i disconnect when doing compression tests to stop the injectors from firing.

are you sure your fuel pump primes when you turn your reds on? listen out for a humming sound.

post-13452-1168135599.jpg

those two plugs are for your injectors, the one on the top is the one i disconnect when doing compression tests to stop the injectors from firing.

are you sure your fuel pump primes when you turn your reds on? listen out for a humming sound.

post-13452-1168135599.jpg

mmm both those plugs are in, the fuel pump primes and gives my fpr guage 37PSI

what timing should an RB25 be at? its on 15 degs advanced atm

added pictures to first post what are those plugs for

bottom plug circled above is knock sensors..

pull off the FPR, and check there is fuel in the rail.

also pull off a plug and see if it's wet with fuel

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=75720

?? err, you're saying these aren't connected to anything? they need to be wired up to 12v and a few other things in the engine bay.

The relays are very important too, and need to be wired up correctly to fire up the ECU on IGN, and start the engine. They allow the ECU to turn itself off when the IGN is turned off.

I suggest you check the wiring diagrams a bit more closely -- I think you're a bit off the mark from what I can gather from what I'm reading.

bottom plug circled above is knock sensors..

pull off the FPR, and check there is fuel in the rail.

also pull off a plug and see if it's wet with fuel

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=75720

?? err, you're saying these aren't connected to anything? they need to be wired up to 12v and a few other things in the engine bay.

The relays are very important too, and need to be wired up correctly to fire up the ECU on IGN, and start the engine. They allow the ECU to turn itself off when the IGN is turned off.

I suggest you check the wiring diagrams a bit more closely -- I think you're a bit off the mark from what I can gather from what I'm reading.

the relays etc are all wired up, they were already modified for an r31, im just trying to figure out what everything is for to aid my troubleshooting

only the plugs in the first 2 pictures arent connected to anything so its them im most concerned about....

Those first 2 round plugs aren't really plugs.. From what I gather from when I did my conversion they're simply test points for a multimeter or other factory testing.

The second two are either the wiper plugs, or those ones to the body. Maybe they're not needed on an R31 conversion.

I have 2 possibles- 1- has your car got a car alarm on it??? It could be the anti theft relay not de-energising , 2- Could be the crank angle sensor (on the front of the timing belt cover r/h/s). Did you replace it or bump it when installing engine???? They are very sensitive to voltage spikes or wrong wiring connection (full of transistors that stuff up if not wired up right)..... :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...