Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tint is for looks mate...i was trying to say don't worry about performance mode just yet. get your car smelling like a shag (bacause you just shagged some nice cuttie in it!) and then later on go faster. the chicks don't care how fast it goes.

on the alarm subject...i dunno mine is only 2-point immobilizer so i can't really talk about 7-point!

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i paid 300 fitted from hi-f supermarket its a zylux (same as code apparently but no name attached)

it has sound sensor so goes off it you hit/break the windows. alarm attached to boot/bonnet/doors

has back-up battery so if you etach the car battery then it will go off and you need the key to turn it off.

also remote central attached to that.

that was suffiient for me, but i'm not too paranoid as i don't have $2k work of goodies inside. if i get broken into i will break the arms and legs of everyone within a 1km radius - that's my fix for any problems!

yeah! violence is absolutely the way to go!. lol. soooo tru. yeah $300 that sounds alright. Well I think there's way way sufficent, but I'm keen on that microwave detection thingy, where u get a blinker even when someone touches ur car. The minute i see the blinker go off .... I'll be there with my baseball bat ready to swing... hehehehhehe .... sounds good dude. but those generic brand alarm system reliable?

well its actually made by code which is a v.good brand but its their second brand that they make so its the same electronices apparently but different gizmo's (ie doesn't have the fancy sh1t that code stuff has). This one actually gives a warning beep if you lift the handle or hit the car - it has a shock sensor and you can get them to make it as sensitive as you want. i made it so that if i'm parked and someone with a 5" exhaust hoons part the alarm doesn't go off, but if there is soneone who hits the car with a trolley or tries to key the car then it goez bezzerk! sufficient for a student who is lacking $$$ and needs something.

if you have hi-fi supermarket up there in brizzie then check them out and wait for a sale (i did - got $150 off inc installation!). i don't think the car needs to turn into a robot and rape the would-be robber just because they were 5m away and had an indecent thought about stealing the car. there's got to be a limit.

yeah true tru .... nice. that wat i want. I wanna know if someone touches my car .... for the obviously wrong reason. I never knew u could change the sensitivity of it. I hate cars where alarms go off when ppl just accidentally tap it. BUt i presume if someone touched ur skyline, u wouldnt be too happy. no one would be lol. I"M A PARNOID ONE .... lol cool thanks for the advice, dont think we do have hi-fi supermarket, we have JB-HI FI.... they r pretty large too. THe sercurity u said u have is 2 point? .... i thought it 2 point was less sophisticated then that???

2 point is just the immobilizer which is one component of the alarm. you may even be able to upgrade that part of it...i dunno.

jb hi fi is a bit more expensive than hi-fi and i don't think they stock many cheaper items - only those over 500 or those that are that sh1t that you don't want it.

Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

if you have hi-fi supermarket up there in brizzie then check them out and wait for a sale (i did - got $150 off inc installation!). i don't think the car needs to turn into a robot and rape the would-be robber just because they were 5m away and had an indecent thought about stealing the car. there's got to be a limit.

HAHAHAHAAHHA, nice thought, best laugh ive had for an hour.

just buy a decent alarm eg: maybe minumum 3 point imob, one with shock sensors and alarm on all openings/breakages etc. I still use my club lock even though i have a pretty decent alarm. Remember if a thief really wants your car and they know what they are doing these little things like alarms and club locks only act as a deterant. Hopefully they will steal the car next to you or steal your neighbours car instead.

my 0.02c

the seven point car alarm that KamikazeR33 is refering to is really a six point, i don't think he can count??? (it's cool i work with him), it's the Brant Nemesis model car alarm, it's worth $1098 installed or so i hope on Monday when it get's installed on my monster :-)

It features:

Remote codehopping operation + BRANTS famous PIN code entry system

Six (6) engine immobilisers

Dual siren system (one self powered siren outside – one inside)

Ultrasonic movement detectors + 2 stage impact shock sensors

Keyless entry

Electric window operation (option)

Remote panic

Passive immobilisation

Auto rearm in case of accidental switch off

False alarm lockout

Detects intrusion via doors, boot/hatch, bonnet, windows, sunroof + immobilises the engine in 6 places.

And much more…

then there's all the options u can put on if u got the $$$, pager system etc....

http://www.brant.com.au/html/nemesis.htm

hope this helps

tru, i personally dont think a 7 point immobiliser is necessary - turning my skyline into a robot prison, however the thought of losing it is like ...... erh invest the 1k and then everything SHOULD be alrite. but yeah me no insurance too :P

just remember that it has a pad to put ur pin into b4 u start the car....

ive heard of stories where ppl break into houses while ppl r asleep, take their keys and drive away.... now wif a pad that u gotta put ya pin into... they wont get very far drivin it unless they know the code

btw adrian u told me it was 7 point

anyways 6 is still good enough

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it    Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher      I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...