Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Afternoon all,

I work as a new car salesperson at a Volkswagen dealership and I have a client of mine who is expressing interest in a new VW Golf GTI. He currently owns an Australian delivered R32 GTR which he is looking to sell.

The owner is the 3rd owner and has owned the vehicle since 24,000klms. The car currently has 120,000klms on it with documentation. It is burgandy in colour, completely accident free and is stock standard apart from Bilstein shock absorbers and is mildly lowered. I have run my eye over the car and it is immaculate.

The reason why I ask this question is because neither myself or the owner know what this car is worth in todays market. I turn to the Skyline Australia community for some trusted advice.

Any help would be appreciative.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150061-whats-this-worth/
Share on other sites

Well i'd say around 30,000 with documentation,

but really he should have an idea on what it's worth.

Also there is a difference with what someone will pay and what it is worth.

I have no idea what kind of trade in you would offer him though.

New golf's are a damn nice car.

These are 1994 model right ? im guessing he trading in his car i reckon the trade in vaule would be around 19.500-22.000 and if he was to sell it privately he would get ranging from 22,000- 28,000 mabye, 28 would be pushing it i reckon.

The local R32 GTR prices has dropped dramatically due people importing and they are much harder to sell.

Personally I think that the car should sell at least 30k privately. Also as someone pointed out it depends on how much someone is willing to pay for it.

When I got mine about a year ago I paid 32k for it, and it needed a little work to get running nice again. But that’s the price you pay to have a bit of motoring history.

It's an enthusiasts car and worth a lot more to a (true) enthusiast than anyone else. With only 100 Oz spec versions imported (@ $100K+ on the showroom floor) it is a collectors item, esp it if it's original in every way bar suspension (Bilstein's are a plus, of course) plus has verifiable service/owners history. My guess would be anywhere between $30K and $40K for an excellent example, with lower k's fetching a higher price. Trade-in is anyones guess, but probably less than half what its actually worth.

It's an enthusiasts car and worth a lot more to a (true) enthusiast than anyone else. With only 100 Oz spec versions imported (@ $100K+ on the showroom floor)

To clarify, $110,000 was the list price of the r32 GTR in Ausralia:

http://www.redbookasiapacific.com/au/vehic...hp?key=NISS91ER

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...