Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

Just a quick question, can anyone tell me some good places to find some parts for skylines in melbourne preferably eastern suburbs or city but doesn't have to be - looking for A'Pexi safc or boost controller, or even shops who sell cheap Pioneer subs and good quality Amps (Alpine, Pioneer, Fusion etc.).

Cheap is what i'm looking for - so anything cheaper then places such as Autobarn, Strathfield etc would be fantastic as i already know what their prices are.

Cheers :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15009-melbourne-parts-dealers/
Share on other sites

didya get my last PM? and yep i probably will go for a safc before a b/c but i'm just trying to get some idea of places to look at whilst i'm down there - i'm going to mainly concentrate on my sound setup after my alarm is fitted on monday, once i get that good then it'll a safc and b/c

Originally posted by KamikazeR33

also http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=14456

Join in this group buy.

Where else are you going to find a new 4x100Wrms amp for $333. Reveiws have also been very good on these amps, just do a search.

  • 2 weeks later...

KK13

I've had a bit done there over the last couple of years.

Mostly recently a full engine rebuild. Piston No 6 went boom. I didn't have a lazy 3-4K to buy a second hand RB20DET so I gave him the challange of coming up with an option to repair what we had.

The compromise we reached was sending the head off to get checked, and replacing the bottom end.

It took a lot of labour, but I got it back on the road for only $1500!

I had quotes done with other mechanics in the area and didn't get one under $5000, so I was pretty impressed.

Another incident was the death of my air flow meter - I was all ready to go out and buy a new one, he (John) checked it out with Injectronics - and they were able to repair/re-engineer it good as new. - again saving a wad of cash.

I've never had an issue with any of his work (as no apprentice is allowed within 100m of the car), and the motor is pulling as strong as ever.

I could go on, but my point is: He doesn't shit you - if the car doesn't really need a new ***whatever*** he wont insist that you buy one. And he gives you options, eg. you could replace it for x$, we can get a second handy for x$, or repair the existing one for x$. - and his work is of a high standard, and he has a lot of the spare parts in stock.

(Long answer, but I hope it helps you find a good mechanic) - There's nothing worse than not having one.

Yeah he does my servicing as well.

Oil changes, checking all the fluid levels in all the spots there is fluid - suspension, transmission etc..., does suspension work, brakes, (he doesn't do panel beating or resprays - as far as I know anyway)

He's got a few 33's on the books (at least there has been one or two around there when I've picked up my car before)

Pretty cheap...I'm trying to remember....the oil was pricey as I use a 5W-30 ish synthetic Penzoil. I'm pretty sure it was less than $200 by a fair whack though.

I'm not sure on his stock of R33 spares, but I've seen at least a few bars down there. I know he doesn't really sell full cars, more into parts, servicing and fixing our f**k ups.

Oh and the best thing I forgot to mention - he is open late, like 9pm late! - so you can go around after work to pick up your car. It makes things so much easier than mechanics who shut up shop by 5pm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...