Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive searched the site for weeks , but havnt found anyone who has had the 4wd light come on with the 18 flashes on the ets computer (pressure switch and circuit fault) and actually posted a solution to it can anyone who has had this problem let me know ,cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150257-4wd-light-error-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Its no help to you but I've just fixed a 16 flash problem.

16 flashes means lateral g-sensor. $1800 new from Nissan, $150 from SSS. Put it in, wasn't expecting it to be be fixed, but it was.

The more problems I solve with my car the more respect I have for our fantastic 1989 (although mine is a '93) car with great diagnostics and through workshop manual.

Trust the diagnostics and manual.

When do these flashes occur for diags? is it just the acc on or engine on?

Does the 4WD light flash 'x' amount of times and then start again after a small pause or something?

Mine isn't flashing, it would just be good to know. And where do you get the fault codes?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

I have r33 gts4

1. i cannot find this ecu thingy in my car to find the error code (My 4wd and abs is on all the time), does workshops have these little computer thing which you can plug to your car to see what errors they have?

while wer at it, anyone got a solution to 22 flashes (oil level sensor and circuit)

Check your clutch/brake fluid level under the bonnet and your power steering level aswell - check your attesa system oil level aswell. that should fix it, if not, you need a new switch (oil sensor)

Everyone else, i found these links on a UK GTR forum...

http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rattesainfrormation

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/87007-4w...light=4WD+Light just to name a few !!!!

There is heaps of info on this site if you do a search.

Hope this helps

  • 7 months later...
  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...