Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rest assured, it will more then likely be your problem, the oil return needs the freest flowing path straight to the sump.

take the sump off and weld in a fitting.

i put a turbo on my n/a and i had the problem but when i took the turbo back off since i got defected there is a bolt plugging up the oil return into the sump and then water line aswell just have a look for urself open the bolt and turn ur car on and u will see straight away :(

Edited by Stealthynsa
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ill give ya power figures in about a week trying to sorce an aftermarket ecu to put in, i borrowed a friends and now he needs it bak so i havent put it up on the dyno

Just an update, after 2 weeks of looking for a power fc i've given up, and called vpw and ordered in a microtech lt12s plug and play ecu for $1500 only anoying thing is its going to be 2 weeks before i see it grrrr, so the place where my car was at said they dont have enough room to keep it in so i picked it up tonight and its running perfectly but way too lean to be able to drive. just to anyone thinking of doing the turbo conversion make sure you either get an aftermarket ecu or a turbo ecu and a proper piggy back NOT A SAFC as they dont have enough tunnability

Just an update, after 2 weeks of looking for a power fc i've given up, and called vpw and ordered in a microtech lt12s plug and play ecu for $1500 only anoying thing is its going to be 2 weeks before i see it grrrr, so the place where my car was at said they dont have enough room to keep it in so i picked it up tonight and its running perfectly but way too lean to be able to drive. just to anyone thinking of doing the turbo conversion make sure you either get an aftermarket ecu or a turbo ecu and a proper piggy back NOT A SAFC as they dont have enough tunnability

What about just getting your ecu remapped?

i was going to get the ecu re-mapped by dr. drift but he was waiting on a dyno and now he's away in tazzie until the 22nd, im still waiting on my micro-tech hopefully it comes this week, i got a mallpassi fuel reg, and am thinking of putting a front mount on if the computer doesnt come this week, as soon as i get it on the dyno ill post up the results

i've been told different things, the standard ecu 2 places told me it will work no probs and 2 places told me that it wont and you need gtst wiring loom, then i've spoken to 2 people on here with power fc's in their na's and they said they work no probs and one person with a link and it works no probs so i went for the plug in loom but if it doesnt work plug in i guess i can get an auto elce to work out which sensor wires are diff and swap the wires on the loom, i havent found a na ecu pin-out anywhere so i cant get any defonate answers,

yay i just picked up my malpassi rising rate fuel reg, that should push the pressure of the injectors up a bit when it goes on the dyno, for anyone who wanted to know the first dyno read out was 149 at the wheels with an r32 ecu +safc 2, didnt touch the ignition timing and it was running really lean and the air flow meter was about to shit itself. now i got a new airflow meter and a fuel reg and the microtech should push it up a bit higher than that, and if i dont have to many bills i might see if i can get a bigger smic mabye a r34 one, i dont want 2 intake mods and atm i like the poddy sound lol, tune still looking at being next week cant wait,

yeh im not driving it at the moment i got a mates 73 rolla its got a supercharged mr2 engine in it, its pretty fun to drive lol. i cant wait to get in the skyline agian so much easier to drive smoother and i cant wait to see how this thing is going to go, i havent really had a chance to give it any real stick since i put the turbo on, i had on go and i was getting wheel spin on full throttle when it hit the crazy 5,000 power band really hoping for a fun car.

hey my microtech is coming in on tuesday YAY i cant wait, but i could get it booked in for a tune until friday, do you guys think the car will be safe to drive (cruiseing it of course) with the base tune of the microtech, its a base tune for a turbo gtst that is ment to run really rich so that the car can be driven to the tunners no matter what sort of state the car is in, you guys think it will be safe or should i not risk it???

just to let you all know i havent abandond this project the cars going in for my microtech install - malpassi fuel reg and tune so should have an af readout and dyno graph and some sort of OHHHHH yeh feeling tommorow might be too obsessed with the car tommorow to post it straight away lol but ill get it up there when i can

just to let you all know i havent abandond this project the cars going in for my microtech install - malpassi fuel reg and tune so should have an af readout and dyno graph and some sort of OHHHHH yeh feeling tommorow might be too obsessed with the car tommorow to post it straight away lol but ill get it up there when i can

You better show up at my place after man,

I'm really keen to see how this little project worked out :D

Stu Daddy

Cool good to hear, so this is the third person to confirm the whacky power delivery after 5000rpm :D

Must have something to do with the cams?

The cams are identical in spec the only difference is the vct switch over. The N/A being later.

So I'd say was occuring is torque starts to fall off slightly then vct switches over and torque picks up again.

With the turbo earlier switch over point it may very well be that its switching before the torque drop off and when it does switch it simply holds that torque a little better giving a more linear feel compared to the n/a switch over point.

lol .. I hope that made sense.

GRRRRRR im really really f*ing pissed off my microtech didnt turn up now i had to cancel my tune till it comes in i been waiting 3 weeks for it grrrrr, and another thing to top the list i put a gtst ecu in to drive it to work today and the car is running rough as guts on start up it seems to run rich and retard for the first like 2 minutes then when you driving it sometimes it feels as if the car is being really restricted like a blocked exhaust or the boost is leaking out somewhere but it doesnt look like either are happing just feels like it hope its just cause its not tunned but i duno now grrr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
    • A CigWeld EasyWeld 130 can be had from ebay for $360 delivered. Good for 0.6 to 6mm, which would be fine for my requirements. I guess that on top of that you would need to buy a regulator, hoses and wire. I already have gloves and an auto-darkening mask. How is the gas bottle charged? Do you rent it then pay for top ups?
    • RB20 being an option from factory would mean no custom parts or fabrication required, just have to collect the right bits. Probably would be the easiest option I reckon for a motor swap. How common are SR20s vs RBs in Turkey?
×
×
  • Create New...