Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, so I'm topic flooding today hehe

Anyways i'm trying to decide what to do next to my car performance wise

Currently i have a R34Neo turbo on my car, and it is fairly laggy and no very powerful. So i was wondering if i get it hi-flowed whether it will be even laggier, because any laggier and it would be useless off the strip in which case i'd get a 33 hi flowed or a 2530. I am also wondering how a 2530 compares to a hi flowed 33 or 34 neo turbo power wise? I know the prices are similar, although the 2530 are hard to find. Which should i go with? I was thinking of doing a rb25de transfer into this car but theres to many problems and i wanted it to be relatively original (+ the engine sounds so sweet)

Also im currently only making 163 rwkw (althought that was done before split dump and 3" Cat, i don't think these would make much difference) with these mods so with a hi flow or the 2530 i would expect to make about 190 rwkw, so my current AFM should be alright correct?

Dyno (dunno if it's helpful, maybe someone can see some problems)

mydynoqt5.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150396-2530-hi-flo-r33-or-hi-flo-r34-neo/
Share on other sites

Well... a hi-flow is larger wheels... so its going to be laggier.

If you class an R34 turbo as not so good on an RB20, then your really in no-mans land mate as it doesnt get any better in terms of response.

Its an RB20, so you need to wait for it to really come on.

R33/R34 hi-flows are virtually the same thing, 5-10rwkw difference really

Ah really, damn, just the thing doesn't start boosting till about 4k rpm and take off in first is horrible, i was assuming 2530 would be about the same lagginess because alot of people complain about laginess in the 34 turboes (most people with stock 33 turbo's on seem to get boost about 500-700rpm earlier than im getting)and the 2530's i haven't heard complaints about, humm, decisions decisions

I guess it depends on personal preference. one man's laggy is another man's response machine.

I've driven an rb20 with an r34 turbo before. It was definitely more laggier than the stock turbo, but I wouldn't exactly call it laggy in the scheme of things.

Highflowing ports out the housing, and fits bigger wheels, so it'll just make it laggier again.

most people say the 2530 is a good match to the rb20, but keep in mind, that it is subjective. Response of the 2530 will probably be similar or slightly laggier to what you've got on there now.

IMO (I ain't no guru, so feel free to post otherwise), the response of an r33/r34 highflow is similar to that of a 2530. The highflow is a little bit laggier, but it makes more power.

Check out the thread about all people's turbo results.

Yeh, the car has had a remap, but i dunno just scores low, so i was thinking 2530 i'd be looking at 190-ish seeing as im making 163 now (which judging from other people results is low)

After reading what other people are saying i think i will go 2530, and just drop some softer suspension in the back to make up for the increased lag

+ when i get my gtr in october, i will already be half way to twin 2530's >_<

Edited by 123456

Ah crap! Guess i'll just try get the N1 model.. I wanted to achieve high 11's on the GTR, duno if the N1 turboes on a rebuild with minor mods will do that and i can just sell the 2530 turbo instead.. Alternately i guess 2 high flowed 33 turboes wouldnt go on a gtr either?

well a r34 neo turbo on a r34 neo engine gets you full boost at like 2800rpm. don't think you can say the turbo on it's own is the whole problem.

you say the split pipe and hi flow cat won't make a big difference? i wouldn't agree there, especially if you have a catback. a full 3" system from turbo back would make a HUGE difference, in terms of power and responsiveness. On an r34 you're looking at about a 30rwkw difference, that's a lot.

ahhh... r34 neo turbo at 14psi..... WHAT THE??

How come none of the rest of you have commented on that f**ked up dyno graph?

Did Sam not give you any hints as to why it peaks so early?

What revs do you make the 14psi?

I'd be trying to figure out what's wrong with it now before changing turbos.

mythbusters ahoy;

gtr turbo flange is different to gtst turbo flange

gtr twin turbo's are smaller than gtst single turbo

gtr 2530s are not the same as single 2530 for gtst

14psi on an rb20 is not the same as 14psi on an rb25 neo

split dump wont make any difference to turbo response

Go and have a chat to Sam

really that turbo should hold all the way to 8000rpm and not run outta puff like the stock turbo, and around 4000rpm the show should be on.

especailly since youve added a larger cat, that makes a big big difference over a compliance one!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...