Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just want to know how long it took to install your FMIC kit and did it all both together properly? how much clearance did have, what did u have to do to make clearance.

It took me and 2 mates all (mechanics) 6 hours flat out from start to finish. tbe pipes on the driver side didnt match up and i had to remove the washer bottle (going to have to relocate it or modify the bottle eventually) hacked the hell out of my front bar (on and off 10 times).

I had pipes missing (cut up old pipes to fit, didnt really matter allowed me to keep my BOV) joiner missing (used a factory one) had to cut and rework the drivers side cooler pipe to fit.

Anyone else had a bad experience with one of these coolers? anyone find the instructions vague? or is it just me owning a Sedan?

Final result came good despite our improvised installation proceedure

post-32584-1168175143.jpg

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

what brand was it.

the GTST hybrid kit took 3-4hours both mechanics the GTiR hybrid kit took 4ish-hours was litle bit harder. and hopefully the R34 and S14a wont take more than 4 hours or i might have to charge more.

couldnt u mount it further back to clear the front are.

oh and the instructions arent acurate and just have a pic saying cut here bolt ther...

Thats why the kits are cheap mate, they dont fit for shit.

Took a mate and i 6 hours + to fit my cheap brand intercooler.

If i was going to do it again id save up for something that comes with stainless cooler pipes and uses the factory pipe positions.

Cheers

Don't know whatyour on about. IT TAKES TIME AND PATIANCE. one of my mates put his in and took 4-5 hours but things didn't line up, mainly because he rushed it and cut the hole wrong and so forth.

I have the same kit, took me most of the day but i was doing other things at the same time, one hole, didn't have to move the washed bottle, didn't come close, and it fist like a glove. I had the cooler on and off about 12 times to make sure it allined and fitted how i wanted it. I din't modify any of the pipes, and they were exactly the same as my mates.

So i think maybe you did something worng?

Did mine (a kit from CRD $400 ) in around 4hrs. It all lined up and fitted well. Nothing to be cut or modified.

It was all straight forward.

Im with you mine waws faily straight forward, the passenger side factory hoe had to be enlarged and a hole cut in the driver side but it was or a non event.

If i did it again i would but a kit that used the stock pipes in the engine bay. I dont like hte idea of the cooler pipe in between the radiator and engine where it gets very hot.

Did mine (a kit from CRD $400 ) in around 4hrs. It all lined up and fitted well. Nothing to be cut or modified.

It was all straight forward.

The kits from Just Jap and CRD are the same, which highlights the fact it comes down to whos fitting the kit.

Wether or not someone is a mechanic or not is completely irrelvent, in fact blind freddy could install an intercooler kit!

Thats why the kits are cheap mate, they dont fit for shit.

Cheers

Let me guess, you have tried to install your own intercooler kit before and failed miserably? Because your comment above is complete crap :cheers:

Don't know whatyour on about. IT TAKES TIME AND PATIANCE. one of my mates put his in and took 4-5 hours but things didn't line up, mainly because he rushed it and cut the hole wrong and so forth.

I have the same kit, took me most of the day but i was doing other things at the same time, one hole, didn't have to move the washed bottle, didn't come close, and it fist like a glove. I had the cooler on and off about 12 times to make sure it allined and fitted how i wanted it. I din't modify any of the pipes, and they were exactly the same as my mates.

So i think maybe you did something worng?

Spot on.

From my experience, it only takes one pipe to be slightly out of alignment for the whole overall fit to be thrown out.

I always do a dummy fit and pipe alignment before cutting the hole in the guard, and trim the front bar a little bit at a time to get it just right - if you take the time and patience while fitting, you will end up with a good quality result :D

like i said, mine fited nicely, no problems, no nothing, exactly how and wher it should have gone. YOU just need time and make sure everything is allinged, the hole in the right place, and so forth.

Edited by WogsRus
Just want to know how long it took to install your FMIC kit and did it all both together properly? how much clearance did have, what did u have to do to make clearance.

It took me and 2 mates all (mechanics) 6 hours flat out from start to finish. tbe pipes on the driver side didnt match up and i had to remove the washer bottle (going to have to relocate it or modify the bottle eventually) hacked the hell out of my front bar (on and off 10 times).

I had pipes missing (cut up old pipes to fit, didnt really matter allowed me to keep my BOV) joiner missing (used a factory one) had to cut and rework the drivers side cooler pipe to fit.

Anyone else had a bad experience with one of these coolers? anyone find the instructions vague? or is it just me owning a Sedan?

Final result came good despite our improvised installation proceedure

Sorry to be the one to point it , but it was your install that went pear shaped im afraid.

As for your BOV pipe, you dont need to touch or go anywhere near the plenum crossover pipe that the factory BOV is mounted on when installing any front mount kit

Well my problems arose from my car being Type-M and having that extra lip at the front (is it for stability or something?) It stopped everything from aligning up and the kit sticks out so far that it pushes the kit out on both sides at the front (which now needs a respray) Cutting the battery hole was a bit of a pain but meh, most annoying thing for me was on the right side of the engine, trying to align the piping into the original elbow. Other than that and quite a few badly welded fins (onec again, meh) it's good, looks fairly decent, and well i can't notice too much of a drop in performance cept for the obvious throttle lag

you need to trim the stock plastic fornt bar to accomodate for the piping and FMIC. I had to trim about 4cm of mine to fit and it looks good no problems at all.

What needed to happen was to install the top pipe and cut the hole in the guard to accomodate that position. If i did mine as per instruction it would have possiblt not allined as well as it has.

All the welds on mine look A1, my mate is a welder and was very supprised when he saw it.

I had never done this before and bought a unbranded kit off ebay.. No instructions so got the Hybrid ones which are close.

Took my time and did it bit by bit with no help.

Took a few weeks to get the courage to go full-on and finish it.

CUt the front bar and a few odd bits on days here and there.

Removed the front bar and replaced about 8 times bofore finishing.

When i finally went for it and removed the SMIC/drilled/cut/smoothed edges...ie complete fit did overnight.

Very satisfying ! :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...110032&st=0

Well I took one morning and whole afternoon to get it fitted. Fits quite well. Have to "trim" the front reo bar a bit and have to trim the front bumber as well. The pipe lined up very well and the only thing that did not fit in at the end is my blinker as I have a series 1. Fit a cheap blinker from supercheap store and problem solved.

The kits fits like a custom one... you have to trial fit it.

no workshop putting something in would just "put it in" without doing a dummy trial... so you should be doing the same.

Sorry to be the one to point it , but it was your install that went pear shaped im afraid.

As for your BOV pipe, you dont need to touch or go anywhere near the plenum crossover pipe that the factory BOV is mounted on when installing any front mount kit

on that point i failed to mention my aftermarket BOV was on the intercooler to plenum corssover pipe not on the plenum crossover pipe (not me, came from japan like that) and the instructions said the box should contain 4 pipes for RB20/25, etc but there were 3 and 2 silicon joiners when the instructions said 3. ill get a pic of the engine bay to shou the end result. Being a Sunday there obviously wont open.

But in saying all that the performance has improved quite a bit.

next mission - what to do about my washer bottle

Depending on where you went thru your washer bottle....

Other kits were meant to go thru there and were supplied with half size/replacement bottles. (i think from memory)

That might do the trick :kiss:

i have the same kit, took me 6 hrs to do it on my own...

my washer bottle sits right above where the pipe comes through you should be able to make that pipe sit lower and keep the factory position of the washer bottle...

i had to shave my bar to clear the cooler, i had to shave bits of the A/C thermo and had to shave the tips off my clutch fan & cut the hole under washer bottle...

did your clutch fan clear that pipe running up top near radiator???

there is a little screwing around involved but value for money is TOPS! :kiss:

LOL

I can see how someone can fail at fitting an intercooler kit, seeing as they go on a heap of different ways and all.

we mocked everything up, cut the hole where the instructions said to and we still had to cut a 3" section out of the pipe going from the cooler to the intake plenum.

And yes i had to cut the shit out of my front bar to make it fit but thats to be expected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...