Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone had a stagea for a few months now and found my first problem. under hard acceleration in first gear it hits the limmiter and bogs down then changes to secound. this has only started to happen in the last few days. anyone got any ideas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150575-first-gear-holding-in-to-long/
Share on other sites

How about investing in a fluid flush at your next trans service? It may be that you have some crap floating around in the bottom of the transmission that is coming up to the valve body under high pressure (read high revs).

If you do it, ask the tech to make sure there are a couple of magnets in the bottom of the trans oil pan. They are valuable for picking up ferrous peices of muck that get into the oil, and it never ceases to amaze me how many people have them removed because they don't think they should be there.

just been for another drive but took it easy (no high revs) and found another problem. on the freeway when it changed to third gear at half revs it started to slip and had to back of to get grip. I think i got an idea of wats wrong , something to do with the bands slipping? thought i would have noticed some symptoms before yesterday though. is this going to be expensive to fix

fluid levels are fine and fluid looks clean, nice and pink. the sliping seems to be getting worse and seems to be in third. droped her of cos shes due for a service to keep my waranty and there going to check it out for me... hope its not the tourqe converter ( not covered in warranty ). gotta love that warranty got me splitfire coilpacks for free. yay...

they told me it is, or feels like the clutch packs and first and third share the same pack so thats why i mainly noticed it in third and not first. That warranty is comin in handy. covers up to 2000 and im getting them to do my valvebody while there at it :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...