Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 years later...

Yup !!

After fitted all those necessary power up goodies, then the traction issue. How about roll the rear guards as wide as possible, then the widess possible rear tires you can fit, say 285 - 305mm wide. hmm MADDD !!

Then you can drop the clutch at around 6000rpm with full traction you setted up for like my mates fat ass gts-t33. See !! POWER + TRACTION = 2FAST 2FURIOUS ........... Good luck mate.... cheers

Yup !!

After fitted all those necessary power up goodies, then the traction issue. How about roll the rear guards as wide as possible, then the widess possible rear tires you can fit, say 285 - 305mm wide. hmm MADDD !!

Then you can drop the clutch at around 6000rpm with full traction you setted up for like my mates fat ass gts-t33. See !! POWER + TRACTION = 2FAST 2FURIOUS ........... Good luck mate.... cheers

lol

* Exhaust Cam Gear ($250)

* Boost to 10-12psi ($200)

* PowerFC ($2000)

* Good quality tyres ($1100)!

* Pineapples ($150)

Forget the bigger turbo, the extra power you make out of it will be lost in hitting boost and putting the power to the ground. You want a constant steady power curve to give you instant power and the stock turbo will deliver more than enuff power for this.

If your -really- after a 'bigger' turbo just get the stock turbo hiflowed, once again it will deliver more than enuff power and will boost up similar to the stock turbo.

Now how many people spend heaps of money on their engine but forget that somehow they actually have to put all that power to the ground? Do yourself a favour and buy a set of good quality tyres (back atleast).

Pineapples will give the rear end better squat and will force the car into launching harder in a straight line which is exactly what you need.

Note: The only experience I have is reading forums, not putting theory into practice. But thats only until I get a good set of tyres.

Out of interest...how would you rate your old R33 to the GTR in the street? Your GTST with semi slicks for daily driving wold had to have been a weapon....it had PUNCH!!! I cried when i got back in my car :)

"It is pretty difficult to beat a WRX off the line.. Even GTR's have trouble.. WRX's are full time 4wd that is why they break so many gearboxes."

I manage to keep most Rexes honest in the wet, and the dry.....90% of the time. Grip would have to be the big one and how your car puts power to the ground.

  • 3 months later...
thanx guys i get da drift... what exactly are pineapples..?

LOL..

Look save your money...and trade your car for GTR.they rarely line them up..

:O:glare::)

Weir, I posted this up in another thread....WT.

The curse is back......lol

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...