Jump to content
SAU Community

Are 550cc Injectors Essential For 250rwkw In An R33 Rb25det?

Gazee

By Gazee,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

As the topic states i'm just curious to know wether 550cc injectors are essential to reach the goal of around 250rwkw? Alot of people tell me that its better to get them but i've been offered (quiet often) sets of 440cc S15 injectors new and used. I'm just wondering if i can get away with the 440s and a fuel reg as i'm going to get it tuned pretty soon.

My engine mods are:

GT2876R

Power FC

Fuel pump 040 (or any other suggestions?)

full exh.

I/C

EBC

Z32 AFM

Also i'm only planning to run under 1 bar around 12-13psi.

Thankyou all in advance and I apreciate any input... :)

George

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I've heard from both SK and Hitman that stock injectors and fuel reg are good upto about 240kw. However with a GT2876R it would be pretty silly :nyaanyaa:

Yea thats true, but i suppose you need to look at the condition of the standard injectors aswell if your making that power. When I buy injectors they'll be brand new as much as 2nd hand ones are tempting but i just wont want to take that risk on the motor.

Has anyone heard much about the SARD 550's at all? They are going cheaper than usual at the moment for a decent injector and i'm sort of considering buying them, otherwise i've found brand new set of S15 440s for a couple hundred cheaper but just not sure. Thanks again for the input everyone, all is apreciated.

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
Posted
Yea thats true, but i suppose you need to look at the condition of the standard injectors aswell if your making that power. When I buy injectors they'll be brand new as much as 2nd hand ones are tempting but i just wont want to take that risk on the motor.

Has anyone heard much about the SARD 550's at all? They are going cheaper than usual at the moment for a decent injector and i'm sort of considering buying them, otherwise i've found brand new set of S15 440s for a couple hundred cheaper but just not sure. Thanks again for the input everyone, all is apreciated.

I am making 252rwkw with stock injectors with out a problem. I have sold (pending payment) my 555cc injectors and will buy again when I do a rebuild for the next stage.

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I am making 252rwkw with stock injectors with out a problem. I have sold (pending payment) my 555cc injectors and will buy again when I do a rebuild for the next stage.

Thats pretty good dude, but yea i just don't know my car well enough to trust it with standard stuff when its going to be making that sort of power. I suppose every car is different and react differntly to certain things you do to it. But no chance i'm using my standard injectors when i go for the tune.

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
Posted
Thats pretty good dude, but yea i just don't know my car well enough to trust it with standard stuff when its going to be making that sort of power. I suppose every car is different and react differntly to certain things you do to it. But no chance i'm using my standard injectors when i go for the tune.

i would rather have them in the car to be honest, but the tuner did not want them in, said to do it next time and i need the money for other things now...

  • 5 weeks later...
gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
Posted

Don't know how you'll go getting 240rwkw @ 12-13 psi. I would've thought you'd need 15psi plus. 440's will do it fine - I've got 550's and 250 rwkw and they're only at 60%.

Cheers

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Don't know how you'll go getting 240rwkw @ 12-13 psi. I would've thought you'd need 15psi plus. 440's will do it fine - I've got 550's and 250 rwkw and they're only at 60%.

Cheers

Yea well you never know what happens on the day of the tune, besides who knows exactly how much kw cars push most dynos give you a higher figure than what your car really has.

For example, I tuned my car with my safc @ chasers, i only had full exhaust system, fmic, bleedvale @ 12psi (that didn't even hold boost properly), pod filter and thats about it, the dyno sheet said 214.9rwkw, now thats hard to belive....

Every cars differnt but i'm just saying if i dont get upto 240kw on that much boost i dont really care anyway, i'm not after a power figure i just want everything to work the way its set up to... And with the turbo i've got and the setup i've got i just want everything to complement everything else. I just want to be on the safe side really, but seems like 550s will be the safest choice ey...

datto260Z Experienced

datto260Z

Posted
Posted

Thats why shootout mode was invented, so I would have the same power readout in Canberra as someone in Sydney. Because things like different atmosphere and temperatures and the like.

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thats why shootout mode was invented, so I would have the same power readout in Canberra as someone in Sydney. Because things like different atmosphere and temperatures and the like.

So how can it be deadly accurate? A lot of people i've spoken to have said its rare to get a place to dyno your car that will give you a 100% accurate reading... is this true?

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
DD Shootout Mode doesn't improve accuracy so much as it improves parity between different dynos.

Ahuh... so how do you get a 100% accurate reading? or is it impossible cos theres 2 many factors that could effect it? wheel spin and all that shit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • PotatoCake
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...