Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Topic: Installing a Bosch 040 Into an R32

Car: R32 GTST (Should be very similar with other cars)

Difficulty: 6/10

Time Required: Took me about 2 hours...Which included dinner. I reckon you could do it much quicker though.

---------

Overview

---------

A lot of people say they Bosch 040 is a great choice when putting in an after market Fuel Pump, but there is a lot of discussion about problems such as it being an external pump and that it will end up not being able to use the last 1/3 of the tank. They also talk about the pump being too loud.

I have mounted mine internally and have had no problems (2 months ago now). That doesn't mean I won't...so I guess that is your decision to make.

I have run my car down to below the "E" on the fuel gauge since I have had the pump in. The most fuel I have put in since this pump has been 52 litres....so it's definatly possible to avoid the 1/3 fuel problem.

My pump is only loud in the sucking sound it makes, not rattles or the like.

-------------

Tools Needed

-------------

I forget exactly, but sockets and screwdrivers would be good. I think you need an 8 and 10, and then whatever your hose clamps have.

Pliers

Hack Saw (or some way of cutting metal about 2mm thick)

-------------

Parts Needed

-------------

Some new fuel hose...hmmm I forget what size...Just take the pump to repco or the like.

Hose clamps to hold the pump onto the mount. Get 2 of them...around 2.5 inch, again - take the pump to the store with you.

4 or 5 New hose clamps for the fuel line (why not replace them while they are off. There will be 2 external, and 2 or 3 internal)

Ring Terminals...I don't remember the size...take the pump to the shop! haha

-------------

Installation

-------------

Perform this in a clean, shaded area. Don't do it in the sun as the tank will pressurise and start pushing fuel out even without a pump! (It happened to me after I went back and checked the pump was still mounted correctly)

1) Remove carpet and wooden floor panel from boot

2) Remove everything from boot. Don't leave anything that could fall into the tank. If it's dirty, wipe it down.

3) Remove the cover for the electrical plug, and the fuel tank cover

4) You probably should find a way to dispose of the fuel in the lines, however I just pulled the lines off and let fuel go everywhere. It may be worthwhile taping the lines or tieing them to make it easier to get them back on later. It can be hard if the hoses fall back out of reach.

5) Throw away the old hose clamps. For $1 each, why bother...just replace them.

6) Undo the bolts/Screws that hold the tank cover on.

7) CAREFULLY pull the pump out (it's attached to the tank cover) Be carefull of the float (white plastic) and the metal arms/electrics etc.

8) Put the pump in your clean working area (bench)

9) I read in another thread that you should put the O-Ring into a plastic bag, then into the freezer so it doesnt stretch. I didn't do this, and wish I had. Alternativly you could replace it...I paid $5 for mine at a bearing/seal shop...no I don't know a product number, I replaced it 3 years ago when I first got my car.

10) Put the new pump next to the old one, so that the bottom of the 040 is at the bottom of the filter sock on the old pump. That is how low you need to mount it! Mark it in some way so you know after the pump is removed.

11) Remove the pump from the mounting bracket.

12) Remove the plastic/rubber mount on the bracket at the bottom.

13) This is where you make the choice on how to modify the mount. I bent the L bracket out straight, then fiddled with it in the tank cutting it down bit by bit till it was JUST off the bottom of the tank. Other people reckon they didn't have to cut it - But I can't see how. It was hard to measure, so you will have to test it before you mount the pump. This is the most critical part of the job. Too high, and you'll get the 1/3 tank problem, too low, it won't fit in the tank, or will touch the bottom - giving you the noisy pump problem!

14) Once you have it cut so it doesn't hit the bottom of the tank, you can mount the pump, but first you will need to use a new bit of hose there, as it will be too short. Use new hose clamps!

15) You will need to cut off the old wiring terminals and solder your own on. You may need to lengthen the wire (I didn't)

16) The return pipe apparently can end up causing surge issues, so I put a extension on it to push it away from the intake. (This is where the 5th hose clamp comes in from my parts list)

17) Assemble it all back into the tank, check that it doesn't touch the bottom (you should hear/feel it)

18) Asemble everything else. Turn ignition on for a few seconds and crank the car. Hopefully it works :/

19) Go back and check it in a few weeks time

post-15054-1168339561.jpg

post-15054-1168339657.jpg

post-15054-1168339714.jpg

post-15054-1168339765.jpg

post-15054-1168339818.jpg

post-15054-1168339882.jpg

post-15054-1168339934.jpg

Good guide mate.. I was actually considering doing a guide myself when I installed this pump into my R32 the other week. I ended up chopping the L shaped bracket straight off on my car and then trimmed the fuel line bit by bit like you did until it sat just off the bottom on the tank to ensure I got maximum usage of the fuel tank.

Also if you dont want fuel to go everywhere, remove the fuel pump fuse under the dash and start the car until it runs out of fuel. That way you won't spill fuel everywhere when you remove the hose.

Cheers

Edited by Baz
  • 2 weeks later...

are you sure that this is the case? i looked closley at my bosch 044 and didnt see any filter on the inside...

i also read on the web that people who install this pump externally, use a regular fuel filter between the tank and the pump, because some dirt particles in the tank can destroy your pump and this can lead to blowing the engine (under load)...

where did you get the info that they have a built-in filter?

thanks!

aint rthe 040 the internal and 044 external i think hes installed the 040

This is correct. I used a 040, not a 044. You can see it has a mesh on it, which probably isn't as good as a proper filter.

These questions should probably be in a new thread, as this is the tutorial section.

  • 2 months later...

u could use a nippondenso pump from VPW

part no EFI-300... rated at 300L/h and just as quiet as the standard pump! (if not quieter)

physically looks almost identical to the standard pump and therefore it bolted in 100%

and its still got the strainer style bottom on it to sit on the bottom of the tank :D

should be able to purchase these from any performance shop / autobarn that deals with VPW...

  • 1 month later...

you could...but it was another $200 to go down that avenue. NISMO I believe also have straight bolt in replacements, as do Wablro. But a lot of people don't like the Walbro, and I couldn't afford the other options, besides it's $200 towards other things, even if I could afford it

  • 1 month later...

you can get a fitting to screw onto the bottom of an 044 (i know this is for an 040 install) so you dont have to bend the standard bracket. it also gives you less changes of surging. with that in place i measured up the pump and it sits around 2-3mm off the bottom of the tank which is perfect for fuel pick-up. it was like the 044 was made for the r32.

heres a pic of an install i did on r32woohoo's r32:

post-13452-1181367628_thumb.jpg

  • 1 year later...
you can get a fitting to screw onto the bottom of an 044 (i know this is for an 040 install) so you dont have to bend the standard bracket. it also gives you less changes of surging. with that in place i measured up the pump and it sits around 2-3mm off the bottom of the tank which is perfect for fuel pick-up. it was like the 044 was made for the r32.

heres a pic of an install i did on r32woohoo's r32:

post-13452-1181367628_thumb.jpg

nice filter :S

since you brought this back from the dead - I'll update it...

I went through 3 044's and gave up and switched to a walbro...cheaper...had no problems, and it would have just slotted straight in with the standard mount....

yeah...but from what i have heard, they have all been fake walbros. All the tune shops seems to go for walbro, as do most guys I see at the track.

*shrugs* the 040 was good for the 3 months they lasted...not meaning to start a debate, just thought i'd say it :( There is plenty of discussion elsewhere

SECUR1TY's install is an 044 and they dont like being in a tank at all.. the 044 has a filter built into the bottom of it and they are designed bo be used in an upright position unlike its 044 external brother..

so if you are using in 044 in your tank no wonder it died...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have an Elite 2500, honestly most of this has been a lot of smaller tasks chasing little details and a whole lot of life getting in the way of bigger projects. I don't mind too much looking at a spectrograph vs having audio knock ears. 
    • Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it. It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5. And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P
    • Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right??? I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics  Cheers for the useful information 
    • What kind of power delivery are you after? If it's nice and linear, the 0.86 would be better. If you're after bake tyres and head snaps on boost the 0.64 would be fun. I'm boring and old, so linear power is preferred. Lately I've been watching videos on Z06 Corvettes and super charged Mustangs.... 
    • I’d go the smaller rear just because you’re staying on 98, if e85 I’d go the bigger one
×
×
  • Create New...