Jump to content
SAU Community

ECU  

135 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Its time to get the R32 Rb20 tuning sorted. At present Im running the Stocker with a Jun rechip, at present it seems to be having a remap issue. Its also misfiring a little in the higher rpm. The car has two extra injectors connecting to a Greddy Injector Controller Rebic. At present the car is running 320-330hp at the wheels.

Wondering what you use, recommend and why. Im doing a little research before I commit and want to know whats out there.

Cheers,

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

atm i have a mines ecu but i am getting a wolf 3d v5 because it has a lot more refinements than pfc only problem with wolf is finding a place to tune and i have found the experts :)

pfc is also good because its an idiot ecu because just about anybody can tune them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2812116
Share on other sites

depends on what you want, if you want a stockish car, and no wank, go a PFC, or a lumpy/bikirom, will behave like stock, drive like stock, and handle your extra power, otherwise go the autronic or motec route if you want to spend some decent fold, both will suit your requirements and more..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2812366
Share on other sites

Best value for money is the Wolf hands down. My silvertop 20 is kicking out 274.8rwhp with 3 inch turbo back, RB25 turbo, Blitz BOV, fmic and Wolf 3D (stock injectors etc, nothing else in the engine touched... yet). Also gets rid of the common AFM problems you have with 20's. PFC is good but a lot more basic, especially in comparison to the V5 Wolf but similar in pricing.

From what I can gather, the Wolf will also get you better fuel consumption that a PFC. More tunability etc. My car off boost is awesome on fuel, can get nearly 600 to a tank now days. On boost when fuel is needed it is there.

Edited by R31 Chick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2812896
Share on other sites

unless you need the extra features of a wolf/autronic/motec type ecu you cant really go past the powerfc

plug in , stock idle a/c everything controlled perfectly , the most popular ecu by far with the most tuners by far and cheap

only problem is getting the old discontinued ones now

but i guess if you got the $$$ to burn go full wolf/autronic style with antilag , launch controll , flat shifting the worx!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2813079
Share on other sites

lumpyrom ftw! handles my street car and my track thrasher smashing limiter all the time with 300rwhp and hasnt broke yet. If i wanted to step up it would be autronic, or for a powerful street car pfc. All the tuneability in the world with proven results and actually has people who can tune it and not blow ur car up with a dodgey 2nd rate ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2813165
Share on other sites

my car came over with a microtech in it...

fuel efficiency was terrible, i could drive like a grandma, or sit on the limiter all day, and get the exact same km per tank.

swapped it for a PFC, and bar the little hiccup mine had, it's a great ECU, lots of tuners, and widely used. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2813290
Share on other sites

Really if properly tuned they are all good ecus. And thats the catch....an ecu is only as good as the tune.

As someone else has said find a workshop that you are going to use, ask what ecu they tune and recommend, have a look at some of their results and go from there....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2813432
Share on other sites

PFC D-Jetro, rid the AFM's (soon anyway...) just for something different. Easiest/cheapest piggyback ECU solution with great tuning options and the hand controller.

Microtech was too expensive as were other aftermarket ECU's like GRedy E-manage and HKS F-Con Pro, I was told to steer clear of Wolf3D. LumpyRom and Autronic I never considered at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2813461
Share on other sites

Considering that AP Engineering no longer exists, is it possible to get someone else (i.e. a performance shop) to modify an RB25 pfc to suit an RB20?

Edit: personally, I am going to go for a remap of my stock ECU until I can fund an RB25 transplant, then I will fork out for some aftermarket management :huh:

P.S. I saw something mentioned about Hyperdrive being sold.. does that mean no more new LumpyROM's?

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2814424
Share on other sites

Always depends who you talk to as to what you hear. Think about your budget and what you want from the ECU, then make an informed decision. A lot of different ideas from different places and they aren't always based on fact.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2814854
Share on other sites

From what I can gather, the Wolf will also get you better fuel consumption that a PFC. More tunability etc. My car off boost is awesome on fuel, can get nearly 600 to a tank now days. On boost when fuel is needed it is there.

The fuel economy has nothing to do with the ecu, its all to do with the tuner.

I know wolf's get good fuel economy because the tunes you get in WA are so lean, they just melt the piston out of the motors. which makes fuel economy really good .

PowerFC all the way. The votes speak for themselves.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151104-your-ecu-choice/#findComment-2814859
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...